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#1: FAQ, Part 1/6

Posted on 2006-07-23 06:43:01 by faq

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part1
Posting-Frequency: 15 days
Last-modified: 2006/6/1
Version: 5.9

This section is generally revised every 300 days.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to <a href="mailto:faq&#64;" target="_blank">faq&#64;</a>
Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.
Instead, reply to faq2 at that allpar /dot/ com address.
If that fails, go to and provide feedback from there.
Thank you.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
* Important Note * Chrysler generally refers to the full Chrysler Group
(Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep) or, historically, Chrysler Corporation (including
Plymouth, DeSoto, Eagle, and, while they belonged to Chrysler, Simca,
Rootes Group, Sunbeam, Singer, and AMC).

While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the
information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and
contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for
damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.
The writers and the maintainer do not claim to be authorities.
information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
given to the writers and maintainer; and that it is not published in
book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the
maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE
copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
(David Zatz - contact me via
- - - - - - - - - - - -
If you did not obtain this FAQ from one of its
newsgroups or from the archives, it is probably
NOT a current edition. The latest copy may be obtained from
<a href="" target="_blank"></a>
- - - - - - - - - - - -


Part 1 -
Related Resources (groups, Web sites, recall/TSB info)
Before You Post, Read This!
The Newsgroup: charter, notes, rationale
Frequently Asked Chrysler/Mopar Questions
Up and Coming
Important Chrysler folk

Part 2
What should I do...
1. ... before I post?
2. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
3. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)
Oil Filter Discussion
List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s
List of All Body Styles Since 1966

Part 3
Engine Codes
Classic Car Troubleshooting
Reading codes without a scan tool
(computer controlled, carbureted engines)
Crankcase inlet air filter, 2.2/2.5 engines.

Part 4
Driveability: engine idling, power, mileage, stalling
Note that this part will be discontinued

Part 5
Funny noises
Oil leaks
Temperature stuff
Note that this part will be discontinued

Part 6
Troubleshooting (except what is covered by parts 3, 4, and 5)
This part will be discontinued

Related FAQs:
Neon - maintained by the Neon mailing list.

************************************************************ ************

1. Check the FAQ.

2. Paranoia, overposting, and thoughtless posts are common.
Show off your intelligence and maturity.

3. Do not confuse Chrysler with your dealership,
the zone office, or the guy who picks up the phone.

4. If you are having problems with Chrysler or your dealer, read
the relevant parts of the FAQ (1, 2) and the Web site.

5. The natural inclination of people who have been mistreated is
to respond to many posts. However, all companies sometimes make
lemons or fail to treat customers well. Try to restrain anger.

************************************************************ ************
- Related Resources:

<a href="" target="_blank"></a> - major owner/enthusiast site
* Models, history, repair, performance info

Contact Chrysler via Net - <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

Phone Numbers

1-800-992-1997 Chrysler Customer Service - USA
1-800-465-2001 Chrysler Canada
1-800-255-9877 adapting new vehicles for people w/disabilities.
1-800-626-1523 Mopar catalog of manuals, videos, books (free)
1-800-677-5782 local 5-Star Dealer locator
1-800-998-1110 Neon Racing Headquarters
Mopar Performance Tech Line: 1-888-528-HEMI.
Hours are Monday through Friday, 9 AM to 5 PM ET.

Other Resources

Plymouth Owners Club (Plymouth &amp; Fargo 25+ years old)
203 Main St., Cavalier, North Dakota 58220
Great magazine! <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

WPC Restorers' Club (Walter P Chrysler Club)
Also a good magazine!
<a href="" target="_blank"></a>

Chrysler Canada Customer Service:
Chrysler Center, P.O. Box 1621
Windsor, Ontario N9A 4H6

Chrysler Europe NV
Woluwedal 106-108, 1200 Brussels, Belgium - Europe

The Chrysler Historical Foundation, at 12501 Chrysler
Freeway, CIMS 410-11-21, Highland Park, MI 48288,
can supply you with service manuals, build records,
and stock photos for a reasonable fee (1967 or older cars).

If you have a Web site: <a href="" target="_blank"></a>
Other cars, <a href="" target="_blank"></a>
Valiant series, <a href="" target="_blank"></a>
PT Cruiser, <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

others in*

Chrysler was the first make in the* hierarchy, but
Volkswagen was the first make to have a Big Seven newsgroup.
Chrysler beat both GM and Ford to having a Big Seven newsgroup!

************************************************************ ************
Thanks to Gene Fusco for the Mopar Mailing List's FAQ; thanks also to
Lloyd R. Parker, Wayne Toy, Bohdan Bodnar, and Dan Stern.

*************************CONTENTS*************************** **

This is divided into corporate and car sections.


1. What does DCX mean? DaimlerChrysler
(DC used to mean Direct Connection, precursor to Mopar Performance)
DCX is DaimlerChrysler's stock symbol. The X was
rumored to stand for Honda at one point (as in DCH)).

2. What is Chrysler's US customer service number? 800-992-1997

3. What is Chrysler's e-mail address?

Contact Chrysler via a Web form - see &quot;contact us&quot; on their brand web sites

4. What about the merger / takeover?

Motivation: Chrysler execs got about $60 million in personal profit.
Daimler bought Chrysler, doubling their profits.
They reportedly siphoned off Chrysler profits via accounting
tricks in order to make Mercedes look more profitable.
Daimler got Chrysler's $8-10 billion war chest and Chrysler Credit.
One UAW and one German union rep on the new board.
Only one Chrysler rep on the board left from original four.
Many plants were sold. More are still being sold.
Mitsubishi seems to be trying to separate as is Hyundai.
Direct Mercedes domination seems to be fading, but money is
reportedly still leaving Auburn Hills at an alarming rate,
and decontenting to fix Mercedes' losses is noticeable.

7. What's the deal with Chrysler still using Mitsubishis?

Just after Chrysler phased out the last Mitsubishi engine,
Daimler announced that Chrysler would phase out all
Chrysler four cylinders in favor of jointly designed fours.
A joint small V6 is rumored now as well. The new engine is
said to be a powerhouse, but it's not a Hyundai or
Mitsubishi engine, it's a true joint venture. Details:
<a href="" target="_blank"></a>

As far as the Avenger/Sebring and Caliber, they were
jointly developed - we understand Chrylser was leading
both, though they used newer Mitsubishi basic platforms.
(MMC has now decided not to use the mid-sized sedans.)

You can read about Chrysler's future
vehicles at <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

8. What's the deal with Chrysler's names in Canada and elsewhere?

Same names, different cars. Different names, same cars.
For the history, see <a href="" target="_blank"></a>
and <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

Dodge and Plymouth cars were both ended in Canada, but Dodge was
later restored and is back in Europe after many decades.

9. How reliable are Consumer Reports' ratings?

See the discussion at <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

10. How can I get help for problems Chrysler won't fix?

See the discussion at <a href="" target="_blank"></a>
Keep trying the Chrysler Customer Center. Know the TSBs.
Visit <a href="" target="_blank"></a> ... keep trying and keep your cool.

11. What's the deal with Chrysler Europe, Simca, and Talbot?

Chrysler owned Simca and Rootes until the late 70s, but
sales kept going up and down (usually down). Peugeot bought them
and sold the Omni as the Talbot. They had Simca/Sunbeam engines
(Lloyd Parker). The Centura sold in Australia was a Simca (Dan Stern).
See <a href="" target="_blank"></a> for many details.
These cars and the former Rootes Group brands, such as Singer,
Sunbeam, Hillman, and Humber, are covered by
<a href="" target="_blank"></a>

12. Why are so many Chrysler dealers so awful?

Bad contracts. Organizational culture. Incorrect
assumptions at all levels. Zone officials who think
all customers are whiners and all dealers are honest.
Blinders at corporate offices...

13. What is Chrysler doing about it?

Five Star program which requires better processes to be
in place and does not rely solely on survey ratings
helps SOME Chrysler dealers. It seems to be circumvented by less
scrupulous dealers with less dedicated zone reps.
Overall Five Star worked well for dealers who cared and
was probably useless for the less reputable ones.
Program appears to not have much corporate traction
and dealer quality does not seem to be a priority now.


14. Should I use high octane gas?

Only if your car was designed for it (see your owner's manual) or if
you've advanced the timing or your engine is knocking. According to
Chrysler and others, many high-octane gasolines have a low
driveability index, which can cause long cold start times,
warm-up sags, hesitations, and driveway die outs. Under the law,
ALL gasolines sold in the US must meet certain standards for
detergent; if you really need to &quot;drive your engine clean&quot; get a
bottle of Techron or Mopar engine cleaner.

Chrysler turbo engines are all designed to use premium.

20. Is X good for my engine? (includes Slick50)

The Toyota FAQ (Todd Haverstock) sez: &quot;Independent labs as well
as engine manufacturer Briggs and Stratton have rendered a
verdict that Slick 50 and similar oil treatments are useless.&quot;
The Gasoline FAQ says most gasoline additives are useless.
Others have weighed in on that score, and DuPont sued to prevent
Slick 50 from using Teflon (unsuccessfully). For more details:
<a href="" target="_blank"></a>

21. Do I have a Chrysler or Mitsubishi (MMC) engine?

See part 2.

22. Does the Mini really use a modified Neon engine?

Yes, it's a smaller version of the Neon engine designed for European
Neons and a small Chrysler that never materialized. The factory was a
joint venture with Rover. The supercharged version is quite nice.

23. What does SOHC, SMPI, etc mean? What do I have?

Note: No current Chrysler has a distributor or throttle body injection.

* DIS means distributorless ignition system. No rotor!
* SOHC and DOHC refer to the number of camshafts; one or two.
* EFI means electronic fuel injection, such as the following:
* TBI - throttle body injection; one or two injectors
spray fuel into the air as it heads to the cylinders.
* MPI uses one fuel injector for each cylinder. It sprays fuel in
the intake manifold, firing at the intake valves. Smoother than
TBI, with more power *and* better mileage.
* SMPI is sequential multiple-point injection; the injector only
fires when the fuel can go straight through the valve and into
the cylinder instead of splashing onto a closed valve.
* Direct injection sprays fuel directly into each cylinder.
This is mainly used in diesel engines (thanks, Michael Turley!)
-- Note: all current Chrysler products use DIS and returnless
SMPI. Mitsubishi is pioneering direct injection for gas engines.
The latest is coil on plug ignition which provides a separate coil for each
spark plug, located right on top of the plug, for the best control and
spark power.

25. What kind of oil should I use in my four cylinder engine?

On February 7, 1995, a Chrysler engineer said 5W30 was best for
all four-cylinder non-turbo engines, for winter or
year-round in climates such as that of New Jersey.
All dealers I surveyed incorrectly recommended and used 10W30!
- In 1993 and 1998 Chrysler said 5W30 was best for all its cars.
- Dan Stern says synthetic 10W30 is better than natural 5W30.
- The benefits of 5W30 or synthetics seem greatest in cold
weather when oil is most viscous (before the engine warms).
- Even GM recommends 5W30 on their Vortec V8s.
- 5W30 was recommended for all years of the 2.0 in most climates.

Use Energy Conserving II and SH grades where possible.

For my car, recommended oil changes are at 6 months / 7,500
miles. I change it at 6 months or 6,000 miles. GM says many owners
do not need to change oil until 10,000 miles! If you are concerned,
use synthetic and change at 6,000.

** CHECK YOUR MANUAL **. Dealers often suggest things like changing
your antifreeze every three months to get easy money. If
you exceed Chrysler's recommendations, do the easy work yourself.

PS&gt; Overheating after a an antifreeze change/radiator flushing
means your mechanic didn't purge the system correctly.
Be careful to thoroughly purge the system of air bubbles -
or invest in head gaskets. This is VERY important.

HOWEVER in some engines 5W30 is NOT recommended.
If you have the 2.7 V6 (pre-2005) we STRONGLY recommend synthetic.

25a. What about oil for other engines?

Check your owner's manual and don't rely on mechanics, who often
rely on out of date memories for their information. If you have a
turbo, we strongly recommend synthetic oil. Follow the recommended
oil change intervals. GM says many owners do not need to change
oil until 10,000 miles! But follow the book, not the 3/3,000

26. What kind of engine do I have ???

Raise the hood and check the emissions sticker. You can decode your
vehicle ID number (VIN) using most car manuals. The emissions sticker
will tell you the displacement of the engine.

27. What is a Mopar? Do I have one?

Mopar is slang for a Chrysler-produced car. Some extend it to AMCs
and to MMC products (e.g. Colt) sold by DC; and some restrict it to
high performance only. It is the name of Chrysler's parts division.
Mopar stands for MOtor PARts. MoPar is a registered trademark.

28. Which are the Diamond Star models?

Diamond Star models are those built by the Diamond Star (DSM)
plant in Illinois. This was a joint venture but is now 100%
MMC. The Stratus/Sebring/Avenger Coupes and Eclipse are
the only DSM models. The Stealth used some Chrysler technology
but was mostly Mitsubishi - and was all Japanese. The Colt,
Sapparo, FWD Challenger, and Ram 50 were re-badged Mitsubishis.

29. What are the K-cars?

Herb DaSilva:
... Chrysler used the components on the Aries/Reliant (K) in many of
its other platforms. These platforms... share similar distance
between the wheels on the same axle, and have the same suspension
design. Most K variants can swap struts (H is an exception).
K derivates include: Laser (pre-88)/Daytona (G), Shadow/Sundance
(P), LeBaron/New Yorker (J), LeBaron sedan (pre-90)/Lancer
(H), Dynasty/New Yorker/Imperial (C), Acclaim/Spirit/LeBaron sedan
(AA). Each derivative has a different wheelbase and floor pan.
First-generation minivans are also loosely based on the K.

These cars are collectively referred to as EEKs.
There is a mailing list for them at <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

30. How do I find the fault codes stored in my engine computer?

See Part 3 of this FAQ.

32. How often should I change my trans fluid?

Check your service manual. The severe service definition means that
the vehicle is operated *primarily* in one of those conditions.

See <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

Even some 3-speed DC transmissions are NOT compatible
with Dexron - read your manual !!!

34. What kind of gas should I use?

Use the octane level your owner's manual recommends and the brand
you have had good luck with. If your engine knocks adjust the timing.

35. No longer relevant; deleted.

36. What about lemons?

To quote the FAQ --
every auto manufacturer has manufactured a lemon or two; even Honda
admits to this. Please don't waste everyone's time by announcing to
the world that your `brand x' automobile is terrible, so
all brand x automobiles are terrible, so no one should ever buy a
car from the brand x company. Such articles are worse than
useless, because they cause wasted bandwidth while carrying little
or no useful information.

37. Are K&amp;N filters worth it?

David Cooley reported on a magazine test of aftermarket air filters.
The paper filters were respectable, but the K&amp;N and Accell filters
flowed almost 3 times as much air when dirty as clean paper filters
of the same size. The K&amp;N passed less particulate matter than the
paper filter; as it got dirtier outside, they sprayed on a new coat
of oil (without cleaning) and found it filtered even better.

K&amp;N filters change your engine sound, rarely need replacement,
and flow better when dirty. Other than that, you may not notice much
difference unless you have a high-efficiency exhaust and performance
engine. There has been debate over the actual filtering ability of
these filters; the power boost on TBI cars is negligible.
So. . .probably not.

38. Is there anything special I should do if I have ABS?

Marv Miller suggests replacing brake fluid every 2-4 years
regardless of car make.
Use only the brake fluid the car maker recommends!!! Fully
depressurize the system before adding or changing brake fluids.
Note - ABS is now far more reliable than it used to be.
The primary source of failure is dirt in the sensors, which can
easily be cleaned.

39. What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Is Dexron OK?

Use ONLY what it says in your owner's manual to use. Many Chrysler
transmissions are NOT compatible with standard fluid! ATF+3
is usually the best one to use with automatic transmissions before
2001, ATF+4 after.

THIS IS AN IMPORTANT and very misunderstood issue.

You should really visit <a href="" target="_blank"></a> if you have
a four-speed or five-speed Chrysler automatic. Even most three-speed
automatics are required to use ATF+4.

40. Are Chrysler transmissions still junk?

Not if you use the right transmission fluid. By the way,
the 545 is actually based on the old, reliable 727.
See #39 and Part 2 of the FAQ.

41. Do I have one of those evil ABS systems I heard about?

These had the Bendix ABS-10: (Thanks, G. Smith)
1990-93 C body (Dynasty/New Yorker)
1990-93 Y body (Imperial)
1991-92 BB body (Premier/Monaco - Renault imports)
1991-93 S body (Minivans - Caravan/Voyager)
Chrysler extended the warranty to 100,000 miles
At some point soon we have to remove this section...

42. Aren't Chryslers junk? / Has Mercedes improved Chrysler quality?

Chrysler was working on quality before the takeover, yielding the
PT Cruiser - which is beating the Honda Civic on quality
surveys - and the Jeep Liberty, which is also doing very well. Chrysler
has been making great strides in quality. Mercedes, if anything,
damaged those efforts by emphasizing an &quot;expert&quot; approach rather than a
Toyota-style inclusive/participatory approach to quality.

Look at Mercedes' quality reports, then at Chrysler's. Generally,
Chrysler quality TROUNCES Mercedes. So how is Mercedes helping?

Useful article:

<a href=";-lay=article%20data%20form&amp;editorial%20type=QIArticle&amp;release=yes&amp;-format=QDarticle_text.html&amp;articleID=8291&amp;-script=cntaccesstype&amp;-Find" target="_blank"> .fp5&amp;-lay=article%20data%20form&amp;editorial%20type=QIA rticle&amp;release=yes&amp;-format=QDarticle_text.html&amp;a rticleID=8291&amp;-script=cntaccesstype&amp;-Find</a>

43. Engine sludge - what's the deal?

Early 2.7 liter engines in some models had a more than normal
occurence of oil degredation resulting in a thick substance
called &quot;sludge&quot; which can cause major engine damage. This problem
also afflected some Toyotas, Hondas, and other makes. If you have a
2.7 made before 2004, you may want to use synthetic oil (which can
also lengthen your oil change intervals). This is rare but nasty.

86. All other questions.

Check the computer codes or replace the ballast resistor.

******************* UP AND COMING ******************

This section has been replaced by <a href="" target="_blank"></a>
and <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

*********************** AUTOMATIC TRANS FLUID **********************

The FAQ maintainer notes that many people have destroyed their
transmissions by using the wrong fluid.
Some people have had bad transmission problems go away
when they changed the fluid. Follow Chrysler's recommendations.
Ignore the alternative fluid (as in &quot;if Mopar is unavailable, use...&quot;).

See <a href="" target="_blank"></a> for details.

Note that this is also true of Toyotas (as per <a href="" target="_blank"></a> )

*********************** NEWSGROUP CHARTER ***********
(This section never changes. The newsgroup was created around 1994.)

- The Newsgroup Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler -- CHARTER

COVERAGE. was set up to cover issues related
to cars and trucks made by Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Fargo, DeSoto,
Jeep, Eagle, and all other makes sold or marketed by Chrysler Corp.

BEHAVIOR. Political comments and commercial advertising will be
discouraged. However, *short* product announcements, preferably
restricted to the name, availability, and a very brief description of
the product's function (where applicable) are acceptable.

Discussion of whether Chrysler products are of good or bad quality,
lengthy comparisons to Hondas or other cars, and similar arguments and
flamewars with no foreseeable conclusion are heavily discouraged.
Participants are asked to be kind, considerate, and supportive, and to
generally keep an open, warm atmosphere so that the function of this
newsgroup may be maintained.

RATIONALE. This group is proposed to help Chrysler (CC) vehicle owners
to support each other, save money, and maximize enjoyment of their autos.

As in, Chrysler owners need a forum where they feel
unreservedly welcomed, and where they can obtain esoteric information
from involved people with similar experiences and vehicles.

This newsgroup should be general enough for those who know little about
cars to get a broad range of information and advise from, while allowing
those more into the products to exchange their views and advice.

In a world dominated by GM, Ford, and VW (Europe) products, Chrysler
owners often find discussions difficult. Most aftermarket parts and
advice are for GM and Ford owners; knowledge about Chrysler is hard to
find. The press don't cover CC as well as they could -- and CC's
dissemination of information to the press and the public is poor.

Chrysler products have quirks which most mechanics don't seem to be
aware of, leading them to replace transmissions when the fault is in a
20 cent vacuum hose, or to replace the engine computer instead of
plugging in a hose or changing a sensor. Chryslers are often seen as
ordinary American cars (unlike makes which many mechanics will admit
they are not familiar with) -- but what will work on a GM or Ford will
often not work on a Dodge. There is a vast ocean of experience in
Chrysler products out on the Internet which may help owners to save
time, money, and trouble.

CC vehicles are common enough, yet idiosyncratic enough, to deserve
their own place in the Net hierarchy -- just as Volkswagens are. In
addition, it is important for CC vehicle owners to have a place to
discuss the problems and benefits of ownership, to exchange detailed
information and personal experiences, in a supportive and positive
atmosphere. In short, I hope to develop a group as vibrant and helpful
as the Mopar mailing list or the group have been, while
making this group accessible to all Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Eagle, and
Chrysler owners, even those who don't know what a Mopar is.

*********************** IMPORTANT DC FOLK ***********
Hard to keep up to date due to reshuffles. Write to:
DaimlerChrysler, 1000 Chrysler Drive, Auburn Hills, MI 48326-2766
Your letter will go to customer service pretty much regardless of
who you write to anyway.

FAQ maintained by David Zatz who works at <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

(end of FAQ part 1)

Report this message

#2: FAQ, Part 2/6

Posted on 2006-07-23 06:43:02 by faq

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part2
Posting-Frequency: 15 days
Last-modified: 2006/6/1
Version: 4.7

This section is generally revised every 300 days.
SERIOUS updates to the body code list, July 2005.

IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to <a href="mailto:faq&#64;" target="_blank">faq&#64;</a>
Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.
Instead, use the form at <a href="" target="_blank"></a>
Thank you.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the
information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and
contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for
damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.
The writers and the maintainer do not claim to be authorities.
information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
given to the writers and maintainer; and that it is not published in
book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the
maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE
copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
(David Zatz of
- - - - - - - - - - - -
If you did not obtain this FAQ from one of its
newsgroups or from the archives, it is probably
NOT current. The latest copy may be obtained from
<a href="" target="_blank"></a>
- - - - - - - - - - - -


*************************CONTENTS*************************** **
What should I do...
1. ... before I post?
2. ... (removed)
3. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
4. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)

Oil Filter Discussion

List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s
2. New transmission designations decoded (new!)

List of All Body Styles Since 1966

************************************************************ ***********

1. Check the FAQ. Most answers are there.

2. Please don't post messages like &quot;this broke and I will speak to the
dealer about it sometime.&quot; Go to the dealer first; if they cannot fix
it, and it is not in the FAQ, THEN go to the newsgroup.

3. If you are having problems with Chrysler, and have not yet read the
relevant FAQ section, please do so. At least call them (800-992-1997).

4. If you are having problems with Chrysler and are angry and bitter
at them, an angry message or two is fine. But you won't help
anyone by going overboard.

************************************************************ ***********
************************************************************ ***********

(Note: Thanks to Dan Adams for his help with parts of this -
Chrysler Corp should be grateful to have him!)

* The order in which you should deal with a problem is something like
1. Speak politely but assertively with the service writer.
2. Ask to go for a ride with the mechanic and discuss relevant issues
wuth them.
3. Service manager.
4. 800 992 1997.
5. Zone (voluntary buyback negotiations IF APPLICABLE)
6. Arbitration / Consumer Affairs / Attorney General if applicable
AND needed.

* Be *polite* and *calm* but assertive at all times. Do not take &quot;no&quot;
for an answer but do *not* act angry or make threats. Chrysler sometimes
helps, even out of warranty, but they need to be gently pushed; they are
generally defensive; and they have a strange impression that all dealers
are wonderful and honest while most customers are liars. The Customer
Center reps
often don't know what they're talking about, so elaboration may help; they
are not car people or particularly well paid. If all else fails, call back
and speak to someone else. Always take down their name for your reference!

* Know what you're talking about. Check the FAQ, TSBs, your computer
codes, and recalls before you visit the dealer with a problem.

* Don't expect Chrysler to change something because it's listed in a TSB
(technical service bulletin). TSBs describe solutions to problems which
may not apply to your car; they are *not* recalls, though Chrysler often
fixes cars out of warranty if there is a known problem and TSB on it.

* Even if you are in an adversarial relationship, act in a friendly,
nonthreatening, non-adversarial manner. It works better and makes both
parties less angry.

* Daniel Adams writes: Chrysler corparte headquarters does tend to back
the field reps but a good service writer can get to them and help you
more than you would believe. Don't take your frustration out on the service
writers, they carry quite a bit of pull behind the scenes. [And sometimes
it helps to know who the good service writers are.]

* Don't take &quot;no&quot; for an answer. Call Chrysler at 800-992-1997 from a
pay phone if you have to. They will call the dealer. Often, the dealer
will discover they don't need to charge you or keep your car after all!

* If your dealer keeps fixing the same thing over and over again, get
another dealer. Or try the newsgroup.

* If your dealer treats you badly, lies to you, refuses to do the work,
etc., get another dealer.

* Consider service BEFORE buying the car when you choose a dealer. Also
consider asking the salesman who the best service writer is.

* If you have a continuing problem, speak to the people at the Customer
Center. You may need to deal with a zone rep, the final word at
Chrysler. Others can overrule them but THEY (generally) WILL NOT. Some reps are
good. Others are useless. There have been many reports that the reps in
some areas are exceedingly sensitive and need to be handled with kid
gloves. (See message about service writers above -- they can often get
action where ordinary mortals cannot).

* Note: if, as Continental Auto Body (of Wyckoff, New Jersey) did to my
car, your dealer should get your car into an accident, immediatly retain
a lawyer and find out what your options are. Examine the damage
personally before they have a chance to cover it up and lie about it.

****** NON-CHRYSLER SOLUTIONS ****** (after internal solutions fail)

courtesy of <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

* Contact your local consumer affairs department. Note: May not work in
states with a predominantly anti-government/libertarian attitude.

1. File an official lemon law complaint with your state. This
will get their attention and help negotiation. You can
usually get a better deal through negotiation than in court.
Hiring a lemon law specialist may help - good ones will offer
to negotiate *first.* Chrysler has a reputation for being easy!

2. Go through the Customer Arbitration Board. Results with this
group have been mixed.

* Most lawyers don't know the first thing about lemon law! A good one
will know the people at the zone office and will try to
talk nice to them to solve the problem. If negotiation is not their
first move, they are not the right lawyer.

* Your chances of getting cash are slim. You will probably get a credit
(buy-back). You will usually not get all of your money back. Chrysler
tends to follow state laws; most impose a penalty on each mile of use
before the first lemon-type complaint. This is normal and OK.

* Go through the latest TSBs again. Something new might have come up.

*Whenever your dealer lies to you or is otherwise providing poor service,
send a letter to Dealer Agreements or the Customer Center, Box 302,
Centerline, MI
48015. It may not help you but it might help someone else! (Actually, it
may not help anyone else, either).

* If in a dispute with a five-star dealer, feel free to return your
customer satisfaction survey with very negative ratings. Dan Adams
assures us that these surveys are taken very seriously. Be aware that
all surveys are also given to the dealers - not just in aggregate form,
but the individual surveys - so be careful what you say, don't go
overboard. For more details on what happens to your surveys, see
<a href="" target="_blank"></a>

* If you get into a dispute with an auto body shop, check your state's
laws to see what regulations and rules might be applicable.

************************************************************ ************



2.2/2.5 turbo:
-- check for fuel leaks and loose fuel line connections

Any Mitsubishi engine
-- high oil consumption: see Allpar for relatively cheap fix
-- replace the timing belts on time!

Carbureted V-8/slant six engines
-- clean the crankcase inlet air filter regularly.
-- keep a spare ballast resistor in your glove compartment
-- make sure the stove and damper (vacuum-powered valve) are working
-- check/replace vacuum tubes regularly

Any engine without DIS (if you have a rotor, this applies to you) ---
-- Problems may be caused by low quality rotor or different
brand rotor and distributor cap. (Standard-Bluestreak was recommended
by Dan Stern. There have been malformed Mopar 2.2/2.5 caps).

2.7 V6, pre-2006: use synthetic oil to avoid sludge


4-speed automatic
-- 1989-94: watch for early failure and press Chrysler to pay for repairs.
-- all: Change fluid regularly with *recommended* fluid.
See <a href="" target="_blank"></a>
-- KNOW the right fluid (owner's manual ONLY). Do NOT trust mechanics.
The right fluid for 1988-1998 transmissions is usually Type 7176.
The right fluid for 1999 and up models is usually ATF+4.
See <a href="" target="_blank"></a>
-- DO NOT use non-recommended fluid or ANY additives.
-- Check for TSBs and have the computer replaced if
needed. If a dealer doesn't feel/hear it, find another. Persist
until they follow the TSB. The new computer save wear and tear
on the transmission for various reasons. (Note: 1996+ transmissions
have software-upgradable computers)
-- MOST problems are due to MAINTENANCE ISSUES. Do the maintenance
with EXACTLY the fluids and parts recommended!
-- Chrysler has informally extended some transmission warranties due
to earlier problems.
-- AGAIN, DO NOT USE DEXRON! Do not trust any mechanic! ASK!
-- If you have a problem, check the allpar forums and try getting
second opinions. Mechanics, including dealership mechanics, are
quick to demand that you replace or rebuilt these things even when
the problems are minor! Even honest mechanics are jaded by past
-- If you DO have a problem, make SURE the first thing they check
is the computer error code. Most problems appear to be sensor issues
rather than mechanical breakdowns. That's the difference between
$100 and $2500!

5-speed manual transmission, pre-1994 (non-MMC):
-- Seepage from the transaxle is common.


-- You may be able to prevent problems with ABS systems by
changing the brake fluid every 4 years (or more).
-- Often, the ABS light goes on due to dirt in the sensors. Try to
troubleshoot it yourself using the engine-code method.
<a href="" target="_blank"></a>


Neon -- see the Neon FAQ.
-- whining noise from the computer for 3-4 minutes after the engine
is shut, periodically, is normal.
-- bad head gaskets: fixed with mid-1997 upgrade.
-- Other Neon issues - see <a href="" target="_blank"></a>


Metallic paints are more prone to problems.
Blue seems to be more prone to problems.
Red is known for fading and peeling.
Paint seems to have improved markedly since the 1990s.
Note: this applies to all brands of cars and trucks.

******************* CONSUMER REPORTS DISCUSSIONS *******************
Transferred to Web site, <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

From Lloyd Parker, updated since then:

**** Engines used in Chryslers since 1966:

Lots of info on most of these engines is at
<a href="" target="_blank"></a>

* denotes an engine still in production for Chrysler vehicles
(some are still used elsewhere, e.g. 2.2 in China, 2.4 in Russia)

4 cylinders

1.4 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ
1.4 (CC/Rover) - BMW Mini
1.5 (Sunbeam) -- Cricket (British)
1.5 (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ, Challenger, Sapporo, Arrow
1.6 (Peugeot) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.6 turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 DOHC (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 (CC/Rover) - Mini and export Neons
1.7 (VW) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.8 (MMC) -- Colt, Vista, Summit, Laser, Talon
1.8 (CC)* -- Neons outside the US
1.8 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
2.0 (MMC) -- Arrow, Vista
2.0 DOHC (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 SOHC * -- Neon
2.0 DOHC * -- Neon, Sebring, Avenger, Talon, Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze
2.0 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
2.2 -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo, Aries, Lancer,
Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, 400, 600, Caravelle, Caravan,
Voyager, LeBaron, Laser, Daytona, New Yorker, E-Class,
Executive, Limousine (note: TBI and carb versions)
2.2 turbo -- LeBaron, New Yorker, Limousine, Laser, Daytona,
Lancer, TC, 600, Shadow, Caravelle, Sundance, Omni,
Charger, E-Class, Shelby (note: MPI)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- Spirit, Daytona (joint venture with Lotus)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- TC (joint venture with Maserati)
2.2 (Renault) -- Medallion
2.4 (MMC) -- Vista, Summit
2.4* DOHC (CC) -- Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze, 1996+ minivans, PT
2.4 Turbo (CC) - PT GT, SRT-4, Mexican Stratus R/T
2.4 (WE)* -- World Engine - Caliber, Compass, Patriot, more (2006+)
2.5 (CC) -- minivans, Aries, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance,
Duster, 600, Lancer, Dynasty, Daytona, Spirit, Acclaim,
LeBaron, Caravelle, Dakota (to 1995) - no carb versions
2.5 turbo (CC) -- minivans, Spirit, Acclaim, Shadow,
Sundance, LeBaron, Daytona (Note: MPI)
2.5 (AMC) -- Wrangler, Cherokee, Premier, Dakota (96+)
2.6 (MMC) -- New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine,
LeBaron, 400, 600, Aries, Reliant, Caravan, Voyager
2.6 turbo (MMC) -- Conquest (MMC)
[Coming up - Hyundai engine tweaked by Mitsubishi and Chrysler for use in
all three lines]

2.5 is 2.2 with balance shafts, minor changes. 2.0 (CC) is 2.2 with
different heads, fuel system, some tweaks. 3.9 V-6 (below) based on 318.
2.4 is 2.0 with balance shafts, other minor changes.
Chrysler families: 2.2/2.5, 2.0/2.4

2.5* (MMC) -- Sebring, Avenger, Cirrus, Stratus (based on 3.0)
2.7* LH series (1998-2001), Stratus/Sebring
3.0 (MMC) -- LeBaron, TC, minivans, New Yorker, Spirit,
Dynasty, Daytona, Stealth, Shadow ES, Acclaim, Duster
3.0 (Renault) -- Premier, Monaco
3.2 LH series (1998+)
3.3* New Yorker, Dynasty, LH series, minivans
3.5* LH series (1998+), Prowler (steel and aluminum versions) -
Chrysler considers the aluminum version to be entirely new
3.7* V-6 for trucks (2002+)
3.8* New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Imperial, minivans - bored 3.3
3.8* Wrangler, 2007 Pacifica, others - enlarged 3.5
3.9 trucks (3.9 is based on the 318)
4.0 enlarged, modified version of the 3.8

Chrysler-made V6 families are 2.7/3.2, 3.3/3.5/3.8, 3.9/318
MMC 2.5 and 3.0 are related
The SLANT SIX (share basic design)

2.8 (170) -- Dart, Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda (Canada), A100, D100
3.3 (198) -- Barracuda, Challenger, Dart, Valiant, Duster, Scamp
3.7 (225)-- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Mirada, Diplomat, St.
Regis, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite,
Barracuda, Valiant, Duster, Scamp, Volare, Lancer

(flat head) - various sizes - ended in late 1950s for cars
215 - Australian Valiants
245 - Australian Valiants
265 - Australian Valiants
4.0* (AMC) -- Cherokee, Wagoneer, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee
4.2 (AMC) -- Wrangler

Families: 215/245/265, 4.0/4.2, flat heads

The Australian straight sixes was built on a basic design intended for
use in American trucks. They changed from the slant six to
Australian-built 215, 245, and 265 sixes in 1970. The Aussie models had
hemispherical heads, so the 3-2barrel Weber version could honestly be
called a Hemi Six-Pack.


4.5 (273) -- Dart, Valiant, Barracuda, Coronet, Belvedere, Satellite
4.7* -- 1999 Grand Cherokee, Charger R/T (CNG), next-gen Rams
5.2 (318) -- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, St. Regis, Magnum,
Mirada, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Valiant, Scamp, Duster,
Volare, Cordoba, LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, Gran Fury,
Imperial, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Diplomat, Demon,
pickups and SUVs thru 2001.
5.6 (340) -- Charger, Challenger, Dart, Barracuda, Duster, Road Runner,
5.7 Hemi (345) -- Pickups, LX cars, Grand Cherokee, Durango
5.9 (360) -- LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, 300, Cordoba, Diplomat,
Polara, Monaco, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Gran Fury,
Barracuda, Duster, St. Regis, pickups and SUVs thru 2002.
(345) -- Hemi Magnum engine for trucks, next-gen large cars
5.9 (361) -- Coronet, Charger, Belvedere
5.9 (360-AMC) -- Grand Wagoneer
6.1 Hemi - SRT8 models
6.3 (383)-- Newport, 300, Town &amp; Country, Polara, Monaco, Coronet,
Charger, Challenger, Dart, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Road
Runner, Barracuda, Magnum
6.6 (400) -- Newport, New Yorker, Town &amp; Country, Monaco, Fury, Road
Runner, Gran Fury, Charger, maybe Cordoba, Magnum
7.0 (426, Hemi &amp; Wedge) -- Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda,
Challenger, Charger, Coronet, Daytona, Superbird
7.2 (440) -- Newport, New Yorker, 300, Town &amp; Country, Imperial, Polara,
Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Daytona, Superbird

8.0 V-10* -- Viper, Ram trucks (two versions, fairly different)
Truck version (cast iron) ended in 2002. Aluminum continues.


Gary Howell clarifies:

** Small blocks (except new 4.7) **
273/318/340/360 are LA engines they look the same from the outside.
LA stands for &quot;Lightweight-casting A&quot;
[There is now an A/LA page at <a href="" target="_blank"></a>]

273 cu. in. 1964-69 3.31 stroke and 3.63 bore
318 cu. in. 1968-91 3.31 stroke and 3.91 bore
340 cu. in. 1968-73 3.31 stroke and 4.04 bore
360 cu. in. 1971-91 3.58 stroke and 4.00 bore

The A engines (not LA) are older small blocks and look the same on the
outside to each other. The blocks are different in deck height, but
share some internal components with the LA block. The cylinder heads
and intake are different.

277 cu. in. 1956 3.75 bore and 3.12 stroke
301 cu. in. 1957 3.91 bore and 3.12 stroke
318 cu. in. 1957-67 3.91 bore and 3.31 stroke

The Magnum 318 and 360 engines are LA engines with different cylnder
heads. The blocks are physically the same as the earier LA engines,
except the oil
passage for the shaft mounted rockers is not drilled, because the Magnum
engines oil through the push rods. The boss is there if you need to use
the old style heads.

** Big Blocks **

There are eight different big blocks. The B blocks are short deck and
the RBs are tall deck. The RBs require a wider intake manifold.
[RB engine page: <a href="" target="_blank"></a>]

B: 350, 361, 383, 400
RB: 383, 413, 426 Wedge (not Hemi), 440

All B engine use 3.38 stroke crank with different bores, and all RB
engines use 3.75 stroke crank with different bores. You'll notice that
the 383 is listed in two differnent places. There were two different
383s; the RB is very rare, only produced 64. The 350 was only produced
in 1958.


(Courtesy Daniel Adams)

On the new transmissions (e.g. 41TE):

4 amount of forward gears (from 3 to 6 at this point!)
1 the torque rating for the trans (on a 1-8 scale 1 lowest 8 strongest)
T or R transaxle or rear wheel drive
e or h electronic or hydraulic

There are two five-speed automatics: a Chrysler-designed unit based on the
727, and a Mercedes-designed unit (currently used in the LX cars and the V6
Grand Cherokee).

62TE six-speed automatic is similar in basic design to the current
four-speed car automatics and actually has seven forward speeds including a
kickdown gear.

Truck automatics are generally 727-based (unlike minivan autos.)

Transmission list with details on many types of transmission:
<a href="" target="_blank"></a>


Because the list of car body types was getting rather confusing - there are
far too
many models that jumped from one platform to another - we have taken this
out of the
FAQ and refer you instead to full, informative lists of cars by body type at:
<a href="" target="_blank"></a> (rear drive and trucks/Jeeps)
<a href="" target="_blank"></a> (front drive).

For an example of the difficulty, the early Barracuda was a modified
Valiant, hence an A-body; later it
moved to a platform shared only with the Challenger (E-body). The New
Yorker was a K-car, C-body, and several one year sharing two
different bodies (not unlike the Stratus whose sedan and coupe versions
were built on totally different platforms, made by two different companies,
in the same years!). The Fury moved from C to B body in the late 1970s.
There are many others... cars were resized, transformed, dropped, and
brought back with the same names.

Report this message

#3: FAQ, Part 4/6

Posted on 2006-07-23 06:43:02 by faq

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part4
Posting-Frequency: 15 days
Last-modified: 2006/6/1
Version: 4.3

IMPORTANT. Do not attempt to respond to <a href="mailto:faq&#64;" target="_blank">faq&#64;</a>
Due to spam this address DOES NOT GO ANYWHERE.
Instead, use the form at <a href="" target="_blank"></a>
Thank you.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
The author and contributors assume no
responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages from the
use of the information. Some of the information is opinion.
The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of
this FAQ may be reproduced IF credit is given to
the writers and the maintainer; it is not published in any
form without the prior written permission of the maintainer;
the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a
FREE copy of the final material; and no changes are made
without the permission of the maintainer.
The maintainer, David Zatz, works at <a href="" target="_blank"></a>
- - - - - - - - - - - -

PART IV - Engines: Idling, power, stalling, mileage; transmissions

There is a separate Neon FAQ.

Also see:

Part 3 - Classic cars
Part 5 - Funny noises, oil leaks, temperature stuff
Part 6 - Other stuff

* Many problems are caused by poor battery connections to the cables,
which can cause signals to the computer to be incorrect. Check and clean
the battery terminals and cables first!

* If your antifreeze was just changed and your car started to overheat,
purge the system of air bubbles.

* Additional information on troubleshooting and repairs is on
the web site at <a href="" target="_blank"></a>

** Index **

Note: there are *several* entries for some problems. Try using the &quot;search&quot;
or &quot;find&quot; feature of your word processor, or browse through the entries.

We have eliminated some relatively uncommon entries.

1. Stall/hesitation/sag
3. Idle speed jumps OR Intermittent idle speed problems (2.2/2.5)
*** (see also #28 and other items)
4. Transmission noise: when shifting/stopping, buzzng/ratcheting
6. Fast idle on startup
8. Knocking
9. Gas mileage / rough running easy fix
12. Computer code 13 (MAP sensor) - engine runs rough (see #15)
15. Cold / freezing weather problems
16. Hard to shift in cold weather
17. 2.5L engine knocks/ticks; poor cold idle
22. Other transmission issues
23. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping
27. Rough idle - mod 1/96 - several causes
28. Idle speed increases / engine races sometimes / erratically
(see web site).
30. Power loss, stalling, and/or rough running
33. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6)
/ icing of carburetor and other parts
37. Magnum V-6 engine problems
43. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5)
44. Power loss/jerky on acceleration
45. Turbo engine cutout/power loss: See web site.
47. Hesitation (see related topics above)
48. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT
49. Turbo cutting out / power loss light
50. Jeep 4.0 stalling
54. Hesitation, 3.0 liter V-6
73. Transmission clunk / rough downshift or shudder
77. 3-speed automatic flare-up / slow 1-2 shifts
80. Power loss or gas mileage loss
82. Poor mileage, cold starts
83. Mitsubishi 2.6 cold start / drivability

1. Stall, hesitation, or sag

See <a href="" target="_blank"></a> for a full list.

------------------------------------------------------------ ---------

3. Intermittent Idle Problems: (see also #28, #30): on 1980s cars (2.2
liter, turbo and non-turbo), idle suddenly jumps from 800 rpm to 3000 rpm.
Sometimes goes away quickly, sometimes doesn't. Solution: turning off the
defroster; check the speed/distance sensor and connection (Tom), freon
level in the a/c (james eldridge), and the wiring harness on the back side
of the engine (Jeffrey Wieland). Jeff found that the wiring harness got hot
enough to damage the wire insulation; he spearated and re-insulated the
wires, which fixed the problem.

High idle, 2.2/2.5 TBI: Most likely automatic idle speed system. Check for
fault codes. Check wiring harness near AIS motor for shorted wires or
wires that seem stuck together (separate and insulate from each other).
Also check EGR system, vacuum system, and timing.
------------------------------------------------------------ ------------
4. Transmission noise: when shifting/stopping, buzzng/ratcheting

Bob Meyer wrote about the Stratus (Cirrus/Breeze)'s automatic transmission
making a buzzing/ratcheting noise when shifting gears or pulling to a stop.
He said this noise, which also occurs on the Acclaim and other cars, is
normal and comes from the solenoids. It is most noticeable from outside the
car. He warned that a continuous buzz or whine could indicate low fluid or
a bad pump, &quot;But if what you're hearing is only during shifting from park
into reverse or drive or coming to a stop, then the dealer is probably
telling you the truth.&quot;
------------------------------------------------------------ ------------
6. Fast idle on startup

(Bohdan Bodnar): This is normal for [some] Chrysler products. The throttle
body temperature sensor is used ONLY during hot restarts; during a hot
restart, it is the dominant temperature sensor for the first 10 seconds
only. So, if the engine runs funny for almost exactly 10 seconds during a
hot restart, consider cleaning the contacts of that sensor.
------------------------------------------------------------ ------------
8. Knocking

The knocking could be caused by low oil pressure. You'd probably want to
have this tested. It is possible to replace the stock oil pump with a
&quot;high flow&quot; pump which will alleviate this problem (or, rebuild the
engine). - Bohdan Bodnar

------------------------------------------------------------ ------------
9. Gas mileage / rough running easy fix

Vaughn Smith suggests that, when you replace your rotor ($6 at a dealer),
you clean the Hall effect pickup (just under the rotor, you can't miss
it!). This helped him quite a bit on three cars. Be careful to put it back
the exact same way it was when you took it out! Also clean under and around
------------------------------------------------------------ ------------
12. Engine runs rough - computer shows code 13

From: Jizhong Wang - 84 Dodge 600 ES
A couple of months ago the car stalled with the &quot;Power Loss&quot;
light. My computer said it was MAP sensor vacuum circuit (code 13). I took the
car to a dealer and was told my computer was faulty - didn't replace it.
Later I found a 6-way connector was loose. It was AIS motor and TPS
sensor connector, nothing to do with MAP sensor. Check the
connections and vacuum leaks before you replace it. BTW, my MAP
sensor is under dash of passenger side, inside the car. It is
two inches above ECM.

&lt;Thomas Z. Zeeb&gt; adds: on Caravan/Voyager, it is under the hood and screwed
into the firewall, just off center to the left, above and behind the belts.
It has one vacuum hose and one three-node electrical connector attached to
it. They range from $70 -$100 US at the dealer. If the MAP is shot, the
engine will shut down after starting. Try disconnecting the MAP, the
engine will then run (rough) in some models.
------------------------------------------------------------ ------------
15. Cold weather problems

Glen Larche said a MAP relocation kit is available to prevent problems
in freezing temps (rough cold idle, stalling):
Kit for turbo vehicles- 4419402
Kit for EFI vehicles- 4419401
------------------------------------------------------------ ------------
16. Hard to shift into reverse (manual transmissions)

francini sez this problem is common to cars which have nonsynchronized
reverse gears. Shift into a forward gear before going into reverse. Or wait
a few moments before shifting into reverse, after hitting the clutch, so
the engine shaft stops spinning.
------------------------------------------------------------ ------------
17. 2.5 liter knock/idle

(Janos Schumacher) says: &quot;A 2.5 is a stroked 2.2 so the skirt of the piston
goes past the bottom of the cylinder. This makes the piston wear away at
the cylinder walls making them slightly oval. The noise you are hearing is
known as piston slap and the only solution is to turn up the radio. Once
the car warms up the cylinders become more round and the noise goes away.&quot;
Chrysler's service bulletin says: Cold engine knock a few seconds after
startup, lasting 3-5 minutes -- most noticable at 2,000 - 2,500 rpm. Sounds
like valve lifter or tappet noise. Loudest in colder weather. Usually
disappears when the car is warm.
------------------------------------------------------------ ------------
22. Other transmission issues

See <a href="" target="_blank"></a>
------------------------------------------------------------ ------------
23. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping

Jim Zimmerman had this in his Caravan. There is a TSB, but the dealer said
&quot;you have to complain LOUDLY.&quot; The service guy called it the 'post shift
bang' &quot;
------------------------------------------------------------ -----------
27. Rough idle - several cases

Could be poor quality gas - try changing stations for a couple of tanks.

EGR valve may be stuck open or rusted off.

Engine idled erratically when warm, sometimes lost power after first
response when accelerator pressed about 1/3-1/4 down. Dealer first
adjusted venting at gas tank, seemed to help the idle. Then cleaned and
sealed the battery connector, solving the problem; was probably bad
battery connection causing system voltage fluctuation, which caused
changes in the controls. (Mustafa Soysal) (edited)

My car died slowing down...I disconnected my EGR backpressure transducer
from the vacuum lead. Now my car is a little bit more stable at idle,
better gas mileage, most likely can't pass emisions. (Jeffrey Paul
Chojnacki) - note: others warned against disconnecting EGR; there may
have been a leak in the EGR system.

My 1986 Le Baron engine's CTS's connections had corrosion on them (a scan
tool showed that it took a long time to reach 180F and that it NEVER went
above 180F during highway driving); I opted to replace the CTS and
connector. Cold start problems went away and fuel efficiency improved. No
fault codes.

If you have hot restart problems which disappear after 10 seconds
of engine running, use tuner cleaner on the throttle body temperature
sensor's connector and see if the situation improves. (Bohdan Bodnar)

Dave says: try the basics. Replace the rotor ($6) and distributor cap [on
cars that have 'em, generally pre-mid-1990s], wires (silicone coated
lifetime warranty name brand=$20 mail order!), and clean and regap the
------------------------------------------------------------ -----------
------------------------------------------------------------ -----------
------------------------------------------------------------ -----------
30. Power loss, stalling, and/or rough running

I have an 87 Sundance 2.2 which has 130k miles and runs great. It
had power loss, stalling, rough running; replaced the $20 MAP sensor
(passenger side fender well) and fixed it. First time it went bad, did
not show up on dealer computer. (Phil McClay)

Tach danced around, engine sometimes stalled. Solution: the computer
(SMEC)'s grounding wire was loose, causing the computer to go nuts. The
wire leads from the computer to a ring connector bolted onto the engine
block at the air filter housing. Clean the corrosion off of all parts.
(David Schmitt)

Ron Smith's 1986 Lebaron GTS was stalling after warmup and not restarting.
The fuel pump was worn out.
------------------------------------------------------------ -----------
33. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6)

In cold weather, some vehicles with the 2.6 liter 4-cylinder engine may
have severe power loss (e.g. after running about 20 minutes between 60 and
65 mph). If one steps on the gas, black smoke may come out of the tailpipe.
The solution (from Dave Witte): A de-icing kit to heat the intake air
enough to prevent freezing. SOME engines had this kit at the factory. The
kit is not expensive.
My manual shows that the 2.6 had a carb air heater. The tube that comes up
from the exhaust manifold, will be on the back side of the engine, and hard
to reach. When the engine is cold, make sure that the vacuum actuator in
the air horn leading to the air cleaner housing is working. In cold
weather, with the engine cold, it should redirect all of the air flow
through the stove on the exhaust manifold. (Jeff Wieland)
The problem was freezing of the carb. and the answer was to moved the hose
that feeds outside air to the air filter compartment and position it
somehwere to the rear of the engine. This prevents the outside cold air
from making its way over to the carb.(Ken)
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37. Magnum V-6 engine problems

Problem: 1992 Dakota 4x4 with Magnum V-6. Engine faltering badly
sometimes when cold, sometimes when hot. On cold starts, the engine
will sometimes act as though it's getting gas only at idle, won't
It will cough and sputter awhile, then &quot;catch&quot; and take off, running
fine from then on. Other times, it will &quot;skip a beat or two&quot; at speed,
under mild acceleration.

David Wright: Some Magnum engines came with &quot;mis-phased&quot; distributors,
causing intermittent missing.

Jerald Barker: Replace the back pressure transducer and EGR valve. The
Back Pressure Transducer lies next to the EGR valve just above the left
valve cover.
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43. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5)

2.5 liter, TBI: Intermittent engine hesitation under high speed driving
ONLY or under moderately high speed and heavy acceleration. The problem
NEVER occurs during moderate driving or heavy acceleration at low to
moderate speeds.

The brass pin you see from the top of the injector -- they didn't make it a
tight enough fit.
Eventually the
pin begins to back out and the ECM keeps shortening the injector pulse
to compensate for the change in mixture. The process can take several
months before it produces symptoms. The pin
backs out to a point that the ECM can no longer compensate for and you
get driveability problems. (dotto)

First check fuel pressure, around 14.5 psi engine off (using DRB in
actuator test) I have seen the distributor pick-up unit on these
cut out intermittently. When the computer loses the signal from the
distributor, it shuts fuel/spark off. The Hall-effect plate tends to get
loose. One TSB
involves re-locating the MAP sensor from the logic module(right kick panel)
to the right strut
tower. EGR failures are also common. They sometimes get stuck
open and cause hesitation; try disconnecting the vacuum hose
from the EGR valve. The car will probably ping on acceleration, but
hesitation should cease. The valve is located on the driver's side end
of the exhaust manifold. You may have to remove the air cleaner
housing to see it. Faulty TPS sensor can cause this type of problem.
It may have a &quot;dead spot&quot; (Eric Eleazar)
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44. Power loss/jerky on acceleration

Turned out to be the fuel filter (86 Aries 5-speed, 2.2).(Dave) (89
Aries, 2.5, after 1/2 hour car jerks, fine on short drives): it would
falter. The dealers (all
13 I went to) replaced the map sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor, spark
plugs, spark plug wires, turbo
boost solenoid, egr valve, pcv valve, and just about every other gadget...I
found a dealer who knew something, and they fixed the problem in under an
hour. The plug wires had been installed incorrectly. (jnoyes)
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47. Hesitation (also covered elsewhere)

Problem: 2.5 engine hesitates/sputters/lurches for a second now and
then under normal driving conditions (highway, cruising, foot steady on
gas). Reason: plug wires were going bad. (Paul F. Schikora )

Problem: hesitation/lurching. Solution: fouled plugs. Oil fouled plugs
may indicate serious problems or just bad PCV valve.

Problem: 3.0 V-6 bogging on acceleration. Solution: clean the throttle
body if it has gumming or varnish. You may have to clean the throttle
plate edges with Scotch Bright pads and clean the bore using a good
carburetor spray solvent.
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48. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT

My 1992 Dakota 3.9L needed a new timing chain and gears
at 49,000 miles. This was originally diagnosed as &quot;mis-phased&quot;
distributer, and &quot;fixed&quot; to some degree.
According to one of the service managers, the 1992 Magnums had a
&quot;single roller&quot; roller chain. The 93+ engines have the more typical
double roller. This may be a common problem for the pre-93s.

The misfiring had been happening sometimes on upshifts, but worsened as
performance sagged. The misfiring occurs when the rotor gets enough out
of phase that the spark gets fed to the wrong cylinder. Ignition timing is
not changed by this
problem, valve timing *is*,
and distributer rotor &quot;phase&quot; is. Get it fixed SOON. (Ron Luse)
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49. Turbo cuts out/power limited/power loss light

Under hard acceleration, the engine would cut out, rock like hell and
the check engine light would come on (until I released the pedal). (2.2
turbo) It turned out to be a disconnected vacuum hose to the wastegate
assembly. (Ralph J. Zottola) If the wastegate is not
opening, the turbo will overboost, the the computer will cut the fuel.
As the RPM decreases, the boost lowers and the fuel comes back on. (Mac
Alan Crossett)
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50. Jeep 4.0 EFI engine stalls at a stop (Jeep 4.0 stalling).

The problem is the flywheel sensor. It is located by following the
wires from the along the firewall and along the bellhousing. These
sensors get worn out from debris and it also might be just the
wires going to it. I had the same problem and took it to a dealer
and they couldn't figure it out either. (Ken Talley)
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54. 3.0 V-6 hesitation or bogging on acceleration

Check throttle body for gumming or varnish. You may have to clean the
throttle plate edges with Scotch Bright pads and clean the bore using a
good carburetor spray solvent.
73. LH transmission clunk / rough downshift

(Blair Wetmore)'s dealer reprogrammed the 4-speed
transmission's computer to cure the shudder when the torque converter locked up
under light throttle. Downshifts at low speeds are much better.

(Vincent Paul) notes that there is a TSB on other four-speed
automatic transmission shudders and mis-shifts.
77. 3-speed automatic flare-up / slow 1-2 shifts

profgmby and Wayne Taylor both had vehicles with 3-speed
TorqueFlites. In colder weather the engine flares or shifts slowly during
the first few hundred yards. profgmby says this causes no problems and has
over 150,000 miles on his.
80. Power loss or gas mileage loss

Vaughn Smith's 2.5 was losing power and mileage. While replacing a burnt
rotor (one thing to look at), he took off the Hall effect sensor. He saw
that it read when each &quot;vane&quot; on the distributor shaft passed the pickup
point; the inner surface of the vane, though, was extremely dirty. He
replaced the rotor and cleaned the vane, and found that gas mileage and
power increased. He also found this problem on a 2.2 TBI and a 2.2 Turbo,
with some improvement in each case.
82. Poor mileage, cold starts

George Lobay's 2.2 TBI had poor gas mileage, poor cold starts, and codes
17, 22, and 52. The cause was a bad connection in the circuit to the
coolant sensor, causing the computer to guess the engine temperature (high
idle). The cure: cleaning near the coolant sensor connector, on the round
6-position connector in behind the battery; and on the bulkhead connector
on the driver's side. Then check voltage at coolant sensor (leave it
connected, just skin a bit off the insulation of each wire and tap in with
your multimeter) it should be somewhere in the 3 Volt range. If that
doesn't do it the only connector left is the one on the computer. Note:
don't forget that if you remove the computer connector you must re-grease
it by Chrysler procedures.

83/ Cold start/initial run problem - MMC 2.6

(Courtesy Marvin Stockman) The Mitsubishi 2.6's carburetor choke pulloff
tends to break; the only fix is a $700 replacement. I have made a twisted
loop (like a hangmans noose) of soft metal wire and place the noose section
around the stud that holds the air cleaner duct. I let the twisted straight
section hang down into the throat of the carburetor. I try to get the wire
as close to the wall of the carburetor as I can. This has the effect of
preventing the choke plate from closing completely, and eliminates any cold
running problem. It is important to use thin wire ( I used soft aluminum
wire) in order to keep the opening small, otherwise the initial idle is
very high. Another solution would be to drill a small hole in the choke
plate. During very cold weather, I pump the accelerator 4 to 5 times and
the car starts right up.


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