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#1: Borg-Warner trans question

Posted on 2006-04-03 02:42:14 by Nate Nagel

Hi,

I have a '55 Studebaker that has received a transplant of a '63
Studebaker 289 V-8 and Flightomatic transmission - I believe that this
is a variation of what is known as a Borg-Warner Model 8, and was also
used by Ford and American Motors. What I want to know is if there is
anywhere on this transmission where I can get rear pump pressure
externally. Reason I ask is that this car was originally equipped with
what Studebaker called an "anti-creep" which is essentially a line lock
that kept the car from creeping forward at stop lights, and I'm trying
to decide whether or not to try to restore this function. Apparently
the original DG-250 trans had an electrical switch that opened when
there was positive rear pump pressure to keep the anti-creep solenoid
from activating when the car was in motion.

I wouldn't mind going back to the "three band" but this car has been cut
up enough that I would have to locate not only the trans and torque
converter but also the frame crossmember that holds the driveshaft
center bearing (it's been retrofitted with a one-piece driveshaft) as
well as the driveshaft itself and then I'd have an issue with the
starter, as it's already been converted to 12V and the 3-band was only
used with 6V cars... basically a more expensive/labor intensive
proposition than I'm ready for, considering that the Flightomatic works
fine (really would rather have a first gear start and lockup torque
converter though...)

thanks,

nate

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#2: Re: Borg-Warner trans question

Posted on 2006-04-05 04:35:53 by Steve Walker

Nate Nagel wrote:
&gt; Hi,
&gt;
&gt; I have a '55 Studebaker that has received a transplant of a '63
&gt; Studebaker 289 V-8 and Flightomatic transmission - I believe that this
&gt; is a variation of what is known as a Borg-Warner Model 8, and was also
&gt; used by Ford and American Motors. What I want to know is if there is
&gt; anywhere on this transmission where I can get rear pump pressure
&gt; externally. Reason I ask is that this car was originally equipped with
&gt; what Studebaker called an &quot;anti-creep&quot; which is essentially a line lock
&gt; that kept the car from creeping forward at stop lights, and I'm trying
&gt; to decide whether or not to try to restore this function. Apparently
&gt; the original DG-250 trans had an electrical switch that opened when
&gt; there was positive rear pump pressure to keep the anti-creep solenoid
&gt; from activating when the car was in motion.
&gt;
&gt; I wouldn't mind going back to the &quot;three band&quot; but this car has been cut
&gt; up enough that I would have to locate not only the trans and torque
&gt; converter but also the frame crossmember that holds the driveshaft
&gt; center bearing (it's been retrofitted with a one-piece driveshaft) as
&gt; well as the driveshaft itself and then I'd have an issue with the
&gt; starter, as it's already been converted to 12V and the 3-band was only
&gt; used with 6V cars... basically a more expensive/labor intensive
&gt; proposition than I'm ready for, considering that the Flightomatic works
&gt; fine (really would rather have a first gear start and lockup torque
&gt; converter though...)
&gt;
&gt; thanks,
&gt;
&gt; nate
&gt;


Nate,

I've read some of your previous posts regarding braking. Could this
anti-creep feature have anything to do with the braking problem?

--
Steve Walker
<a href="mailto:res6nlr2&#64;verizonwallet.net" target="_blank">res6nlr2&#64;verizonwallet.net</a> (remove wallet to reply)

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#3: Re: Borg-Warner trans question

Posted on 2006-04-05 22:58:21 by N8N

Steve Walker wrote:
&gt; Nate Nagel wrote:
&gt; &gt; Hi,
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; I have a '55 Studebaker that has received a transplant of a '63
&gt; &gt; Studebaker 289 V-8 and Flightomatic transmission - I believe that this
&gt; &gt; is a variation of what is known as a Borg-Warner Model 8, and was also
&gt; &gt; used by Ford and American Motors. What I want to know is if there is
&gt; &gt; anywhere on this transmission where I can get rear pump pressure
&gt; &gt; externally. Reason I ask is that this car was originally equipped with
&gt; &gt; what Studebaker called an &quot;anti-creep&quot; which is essentially a line lock
&gt; &gt; that kept the car from creeping forward at stop lights, and I'm trying
&gt; &gt; to decide whether or not to try to restore this function. Apparently
&gt; &gt; the original DG-250 trans had an electrical switch that opened when
&gt; &gt; there was positive rear pump pressure to keep the anti-creep solenoid
&gt; &gt; from activating when the car was in motion.
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; I wouldn't mind going back to the &quot;three band&quot; but this car has been cut
&gt; &gt; up enough that I would have to locate not only the trans and torque
&gt; &gt; converter but also the frame crossmember that holds the driveshaft
&gt; &gt; center bearing (it's been retrofitted with a one-piece driveshaft) as
&gt; &gt; well as the driveshaft itself and then I'd have an issue with the
&gt; &gt; starter, as it's already been converted to 12V and the 3-band was only
&gt; &gt; used with 6V cars... basically a more expensive/labor intensive
&gt; &gt; proposition than I'm ready for, considering that the Flightomatic works
&gt; &gt; fine (really would rather have a first gear start and lockup torque
&gt; &gt; converter though...)
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; thanks,
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; nate
&gt; &gt;
&gt;
&gt;
&gt; Nate,
&gt;
&gt; I've read some of your previous posts regarding braking. Could this
&gt; anti-creep feature have anything to do with the braking problem?

I don't think so, but that was part of the reason I'm asking. I have
the new 12V anti-creep valve; I want to get rid of the old,
non-functional 6V one and am trying to decide whether to replace it
with the new 12V one or just use a straight piece of hard line. (I'm
trying to cut down on the amount of damage I'm doing to the environment
by bleeding the brakes every weekend &lt;G&gt;)

FWIW I probably put about 150 miles on the car last weekend going by
the theory that it's just a matter of the front brakes being more
&quot;broken in&quot; than the rears. I was unable to find a place to try a
panic stop afterwards but either I'm braking more cautiously than
before or else the rear brakes are becoming less aggressive; I only got
one rear wheel to briefly lock in that whole time and it was on fairly
hard braking on a road with loose gravel on it (near a construction
site.)

nate

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