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#1: Re: 88 Jetta GLI with wobbly brake/clutch pedal assembly

Posted on 2006-07-21 05:49:10 by One out of many daves

I have replaced quite of few cracked A2 pedal assemblies over the years.
Not lately though. ;-)
They seem to crack in a few different spots.
I would say they crack because there is too much resistance in the clutch
activation system. Either a very stiff cable or a hard to disengage
pressure plate.

Not a hard job (there are "shortcuts/tricks") and the dealer by me used to
keep the pedal bracket in stock and they only cost around $50 back in the
early 90s. 8^o


&lt;<a href="mailto:deelywomper&#64;yahoo.com" target="_blank">deelywomper&#64;yahoo.com</a>&gt; wrote in message
news:<a href="mailto:1153202777.371298.313860&#64;b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com..." target="_blank">1153202777.371298.313860&#64;b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...</a>
&gt;I just went from owning an 84 GLI (which I broke) to this 88 GLI with
&gt; 226,000 miles. I am impressed so far. My main complaint is that the
&gt; brake/clutch pedal assembly shifts around when I step on either pedal.
&gt; It seems like a flimsy setup compared to the A1 design.
&gt;
&gt; I looked at it today with the help of a friend, and observed the
&gt; following: 1) The bushings and rods that pass through the assembly
&gt; appear to be fine; 2) the hydraulic brake cylinder assembly moves a
&gt; little when the pedals are moved; 3) all the attachment bolts for the
&gt; pedal assembly and brake cylinder appear to be firmly snugged. Having
&gt; looked at it, I'm a little less worried about it being structurally
&gt; sound. However, I drive hard and I can tell that this condition affects
&gt; the quality of clutch action. It tasks me.
&gt;
&gt; What the heck is going on? Has anyone else ever had this problem? How
&gt; do I fix it?
&gt;
&gt; Thanks
&gt;
&gt;

Report this message

#2: Re: 88 Jetta GLI with wobbly brake/clutch pedal assembly

Posted on 2006-07-21 18:05:59 by Mad Maxine

Good. I feel like I'm not alone now. I got a new assembly the other day
for $140, and will install it tomorrow. I know so far that the biggest
pain in the butt on this job is getting up behind the air duct in the
dashboard. I'd be interested in any tips or tricks you have in your
bag.

Also, what would cause a pressure plate to misbehave? Is it something
that can be fixed? The cable seems fine.

Thanks!



One out of many Daves wrote:
&gt; I have replaced quite of few cracked A2 pedal assemblies over the years.
&gt; Not lately though. ;-)
&gt; They seem to crack in a few different spots.
&gt; I would say they crack because there is too much resistance in the clutch
&gt; activation system. Either a very stiff cable or a hard to disengage
&gt; pressure plate.
&gt;
&gt; Not a hard job (there are &quot;shortcuts/tricks&quot;) and the dealer by me used to
&gt; keep the pedal bracket in stock and they only cost around $50 back in the
&gt; early 90s. 8^o
&gt;
&gt;
&gt; &lt;<a href="mailto:deelywomper&#64;yahoo.com" target="_blank">deelywomper&#64;yahoo.com</a>&gt; wrote in message
&gt; news:<a href="mailto:1153202777.371298.313860&#64;b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com..." target="_blank">1153202777.371298.313860&#64;b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...</a>
&gt; &gt;I just went from owning an 84 GLI (which I broke) to this 88 GLI with
&gt; &gt; 226,000 miles. I am impressed so far. My main complaint is that the
&gt; &gt; brake/clutch pedal assembly shifts around when I step on either pedal.
&gt; &gt; It seems like a flimsy setup compared to the A1 design.
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; I looked at it today with the help of a friend, and observed the
&gt; &gt; following: 1) The bushings and rods that pass through the assembly
&gt; &gt; appear to be fine; 2) the hydraulic brake cylinder assembly moves a
&gt; &gt; little when the pedals are moved; 3) all the attachment bolts for the
&gt; &gt; pedal assembly and brake cylinder appear to be firmly snugged. Having
&gt; &gt; looked at it, I'm a little less worried about it being structurally
&gt; &gt; sound. However, I drive hard and I can tell that this condition affects
&gt; &gt; the quality of clutch action. It tasks me.
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; What the heck is going on? Has anyone else ever had this problem? How
&gt; &gt; do I fix it?
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; Thanks
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt;

Report this message

#3: Re: 88 Jetta GLI with wobbly brake/clutch pedal assembly

Posted on 2006-07-22 16:31:53 by One out of many daves

IIRC and it has been quite a while since having to do one.
I usually take apart the pedals from the assembly before removing the
housing/bracket. I have installed the pedal assembly as a whole but it
seems to require a few more items to be removed to take the assembly out and
in as a whole, and take more time.

Things to take apart will make sense as you &quot;dive&quot; under the dash. Take
pictures if your memory is not photographic. ;-)
Remove the clutch cable completely.
Take off the clip and pin for the brake booster rod.
Take off any switches for the brake lights and cruise.
Disconnect the accelerator cable from the pedal.
The nuts (4 or 6 maybe) that hold the housing on are under the carpeting and
then there is a bolt and nut that support the steering column.
Brake and clutch pedal removal if you have not done this yet. Watch out for
the springs and things. It will be a little tricky getting that one pin
through both of the pedals but it is doable.
There is a clip behind the clutch cable guide on the housing (Engine
compartment side) that will need to come off.

DON'T FORGET TO REINSTALL THE BRAKE BOOSTER ROD!!

I am sure that I have forgotten a few things, but you will discover them
when you start on this job.
After you finish make sure that the clutch pedal operates smoothly and
easily or you might be doing this again soon!
Usually I find that the clutch cable is the problem. The dealer seems to
have better ones, but the aftermarket ones are good if you lube them. ;-)

good luck,
dave
(One out of many daves)

&quot;Mad Maxine&quot; &lt;<a href="mailto:tildathetank&#64;yahoo.com" target="_blank">tildathetank&#64;yahoo.com</a>&gt; wrote in message
news:<a href="mailto:1153497958.966485.15010&#64;75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com..." target="_blank">1153497958.966485.15010&#64;75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...</a>
&gt; Good. I feel like I'm not alone now. I got a new assembly the other day
&gt; for $140, and will install it tomorrow. I know so far that the biggest
&gt; pain in the butt on this job is getting up behind the air duct in the
&gt; dashboard. I'd be interested in any tips or tricks you have in your
&gt; bag.
&gt;
&gt; Also, what would cause a pressure plate to misbehave? Is it something
&gt; that can be fixed? The cable seems fine.
&gt;
&gt; Thanks!
&gt;
&gt;
&gt;
&gt; One out of many Daves wrote:
&gt;&gt; I have replaced quite of few cracked A2 pedal assemblies over the years.
&gt;&gt; Not lately though. ;-)
&gt;&gt; They seem to crack in a few different spots.
&gt;&gt; I would say they crack because there is too much resistance in the clutch
&gt;&gt; activation system. Either a very stiff cable or a hard to disengage
&gt;&gt; pressure plate.
&gt;&gt;
&gt;&gt; Not a hard job (there are &quot;shortcuts/tricks&quot;) and the dealer by me used
&gt;&gt; to
&gt;&gt; keep the pedal bracket in stock and they only cost around $50 back in the
&gt;&gt; early 90s. 8^o
&gt;&gt;
&gt;&gt;
&gt;&gt; &lt;<a href="mailto:deelywomper&#64;yahoo.com" target="_blank">deelywomper&#64;yahoo.com</a>&gt; wrote in message
&gt;&gt; news:<a href="mailto:1153202777.371298.313860&#64;b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com..." target="_blank">1153202777.371298.313860&#64;b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...</a>
&gt;&gt; &gt;I just went from owning an 84 GLI (which I broke) to this 88 GLI with
&gt;&gt; &gt; 226,000 miles. I am impressed so far. My main complaint is that the
&gt;&gt; &gt; brake/clutch pedal assembly shifts around when I step on either pedal.
&gt;&gt; &gt; It seems like a flimsy setup compared to the A1 design.
&gt;&gt; &gt;
&gt;&gt; &gt; I looked at it today with the help of a friend, and observed the
&gt;&gt; &gt; following: 1) The bushings and rods that pass through the assembly
&gt;&gt; &gt; appear to be fine; 2) the hydraulic brake cylinder assembly moves a
&gt;&gt; &gt; little when the pedals are moved; 3) all the attachment bolts for the
&gt;&gt; &gt; pedal assembly and brake cylinder appear to be firmly snugged. Having
&gt;&gt; &gt; looked at it, I'm a little less worried about it being structurally
&gt;&gt; &gt; sound. However, I drive hard and I can tell that this condition affects
&gt;&gt; &gt; the quality of clutch action. It tasks me.
&gt;&gt; &gt;
&gt;&gt; &gt; What the heck is going on? Has anyone else ever had this problem? How
&gt;&gt; &gt; do I fix it?
&gt;&gt; &gt;
&gt;&gt; &gt; Thanks
&gt;&gt; &gt;
&gt;&gt; &gt;
&gt;

Report this message

#4: Re: 88 Jetta GLI with wobbly brake/clutch pedal assembly

Posted on 2006-07-23 05:34:59 by Mad Maxine

Thanks for the info. I got the thing replaced. I decided to take out
the dashboard stuff and the air duct. I figured I might as well change
a faulty couple of lightbulbs in my dash while I was at it.

There was indeed a crack in the assembly. Also I made a discovery,
which I'll call Problem 1 (see below).

Problem 1: The top bolt post for the assembly pulled out of its former
location on the car body, leaving a hole. I ended up drilling straight
up into the next piece of metal above where the bolt was welded (near
the back of the dash) and running a piece of all-thread with washers
through the body to hold the upper end of the bracket. I think it will
hold, and it feels stable.

Problem 2: My parts guy gave me a bracket that isn't quite identical to
the one I took out. Everything seems to fit fine, but the brake light
switch is too far away from the brake levers. I rigged a bumper for the
switch out of strips of rubber, a strap of metal, and some duct tape.
It seems to work, but I need a switch with a longer button (or a brake
lever with a bigger &quot;bump.&quot; Hooray duct tape!

Problem 3: Now the car won't run right. See my new post. ARGH!




One out of many Daves wrote:
&gt; IIRC and it has been quite a while since having to do one.
&gt; I usually take apart the pedals from the assembly before removing the
&gt; housing/bracket. I have installed the pedal assembly as a whole but it
&gt; seems to require a few more items to be removed to take the assembly out and
&gt; in as a whole, and take more time.
&gt;
&gt; Things to take apart will make sense as you &quot;dive&quot; under the dash. Take
&gt; pictures if your memory is not photographic. ;-)
&gt; Remove the clutch cable completely.
&gt; Take off the clip and pin for the brake booster rod.
&gt; Take off any switches for the brake lights and cruise.
&gt; Disconnect the accelerator cable from the pedal.
&gt; The nuts (4 or 6 maybe) that hold the housing on are under the carpeting and
&gt; then there is a bolt and nut that support the steering column.
&gt; Brake and clutch pedal removal if you have not done this yet. Watch out for
&gt; the springs and things. It will be a little tricky getting that one pin
&gt; through both of the pedals but it is doable.
&gt; There is a clip behind the clutch cable guide on the housing (Engine
&gt; compartment side) that will need to come off.
&gt;
&gt; DON'T FORGET TO REINSTALL THE BRAKE BOOSTER ROD!!
&gt;
&gt; I am sure that I have forgotten a few things, but you will discover them
&gt; when you start on this job.
&gt; After you finish make sure that the clutch pedal operates smoothly and
&gt; easily or you might be doing this again soon!
&gt; Usually I find that the clutch cable is the problem. The dealer seems to
&gt; have better ones, but the aftermarket ones are good if you lube them. ;-)
&gt;
&gt; good luck,
&gt; dave
&gt; (One out of many daves)
&gt;
&gt; &quot;Mad Maxine&quot; &lt;<a href="mailto:tildathetank&#64;yahoo.com" target="_blank">tildathetank&#64;yahoo.com</a>&gt; wrote in message
&gt; news:<a href="mailto:1153497958.966485.15010&#64;75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com..." target="_blank">1153497958.966485.15010&#64;75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...</a>
&gt; &gt; Good. I feel like I'm not alone now. I got a new assembly the other day
&gt; &gt; for $140, and will install it tomorrow. I know so far that the biggest
&gt; &gt; pain in the butt on this job is getting up behind the air duct in the
&gt; &gt; dashboard. I'd be interested in any tips or tricks you have in your
&gt; &gt; bag.
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; Also, what would cause a pressure plate to misbehave? Is it something
&gt; &gt; that can be fixed? The cable seems fine.
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; Thanks!
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; One out of many Daves wrote:
&gt; &gt;&gt; I have replaced quite of few cracked A2 pedal assemblies over the years.
&gt; &gt;&gt; Not lately though. ;-)
&gt; &gt;&gt; They seem to crack in a few different spots.
&gt; &gt;&gt; I would say they crack because there is too much resistance in the clutch
&gt; &gt;&gt; activation system. Either a very stiff cable or a hard to disengage
&gt; &gt;&gt; pressure plate.
&gt; &gt;&gt;
&gt; &gt;&gt; Not a hard job (there are &quot;shortcuts/tricks&quot;) and the dealer by me used
&gt; &gt;&gt; to
&gt; &gt;&gt; keep the pedal bracket in stock and they only cost around $50 back in the
&gt; &gt;&gt; early 90s. 8^o
&gt; &gt;&gt;
&gt; &gt;&gt;
&gt; &gt;&gt; &lt;<a href="mailto:deelywomper&#64;yahoo.com" target="_blank">deelywomper&#64;yahoo.com</a>&gt; wrote in message
&gt; &gt;&gt; news:<a href="mailto:1153202777.371298.313860&#64;b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com..." target="_blank">1153202777.371298.313860&#64;b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...</a>
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt;I just went from owning an 84 GLI (which I broke) to this 88 GLI with
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; 226,000 miles. I am impressed so far. My main complaint is that the
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; brake/clutch pedal assembly shifts around when I step on either pedal.
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; It seems like a flimsy setup compared to the A1 design.
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; I looked at it today with the help of a friend, and observed the
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; following: 1) The bushings and rods that pass through the assembly
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; appear to be fine; 2) the hydraulic brake cylinder assembly moves a
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; little when the pedals are moved; 3) all the attachment bolts for the
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; pedal assembly and brake cylinder appear to be firmly snugged. Having
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; looked at it, I'm a little less worried about it being structurally
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; sound. However, I drive hard and I can tell that this condition affects
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; the quality of clutch action. It tasks me.
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; What the heck is going on? Has anyone else ever had this problem? How
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; do I fix it?
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt; Thanks
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt;&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt;

Report this message

#5: Re: 88 Jetta GLI with wobbly brake/clutch pedal assembly

Posted on 2006-07-23 06:25:33 by One out of many daves

Glad you had success and you did find that crack.
Does the clutch and brake pedal operate better and easier?

P:roblem 1 sounds like you took care of the problem

Problem 2............that brake light switch plunger is adjustable. ;-)
You can pull that plunger out a little if needed, or at least I have been
able to in the past.


&quot;Mad Maxine&quot; &lt;<a href="mailto:tildathetank&#64;yahoo.com" target="_blank">tildathetank&#64;yahoo.com</a>&gt; wrote in message
news:<a href="mailto:1153625699.736726.123950&#64;s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com..." target="_blank">1153625699.736726.123950&#64;s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...</a>
&gt; Thanks for the info. I got the thing replaced. I decided to take out
&gt; the dashboard stuff and the air duct. I figured I might as well change
&gt; a faulty couple of lightbulbs in my dash while I was at it.
&gt;
&gt; There was indeed a crack in the assembly. Also I made a discovery,
&gt; which I'll call Problem 1 (see below).
&gt;
&gt; Problem 1: The top bolt post for the assembly pulled out of its former
&gt; location on the car body, leaving a hole. I ended up drilling straight
&gt; up into the next piece of metal above where the bolt was welded (near
&gt; the back of the dash) and running a piece of all-thread with washers
&gt; through the body to hold the upper end of the bracket. I think it will
&gt; hold, and it feels stable.
&gt;
&gt; Problem 2: My parts guy gave me a bracket that isn't quite identical to
&gt; the one I took out. Everything seems to fit fine, but the brake light
&gt; switch is too far away from the brake levers. I rigged a bumper for the
&gt; switch out of strips of rubber, a strap of metal, and some duct tape.
&gt; It seems to work, but I need a switch with a longer button (or a brake
&gt; lever with a bigger &quot;bump.&quot; Hooray duct tape!
&gt;
&gt; Problem 3: Now the car won't run right. See my new post. ARGH!

Report this message

#6: Re: 88 Jetta GLI with wobbly brake/clutch pedal assembly

Posted on 2006-07-23 17:52:43 by Mad Maxine

Yes, Everything pedal-related feels like it works a lot better. I now
have a little click noise when I step on the brake, though. I don't
think it's truly problematic, and it -happened before I Gerry-rigged
the brake switch. Of course, Problem 3 makes some of this more
difficult to test.

The gap between the switch and the brake pedal lever is about 1/2 inch.
I tried to pull gently on the brake switch (I've seen them with longer
buttons), but didn't want to break it. Is there a different way to
lengthen the switch button? Do they sell switches in different lengths?

Thanks,
Maxine

One out of many Daves wrote:
&gt; Glad you had success and you did find that crack.
&gt; Does the clutch and brake pedal operate better and easier?
&gt;
&gt; P:roblem 1 sounds like you took care of the problem
&gt;
&gt; Problem 2............that brake light switch plunger is adjustable. ;-)
&gt; You can pull that plunger out a little if needed, or at least I have been
&gt; able to in the past.
&gt;
&gt;
&gt; &quot;Mad Maxine&quot; &lt;<a href="mailto:tildathetank&#64;yahoo.com" target="_blank">tildathetank&#64;yahoo.com</a>&gt; wrote in message
&gt; news:<a href="mailto:1153625699.736726.123950&#64;s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com..." target="_blank">1153625699.736726.123950&#64;s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...</a>
&gt; &gt; Thanks for the info. I got the thing replaced. I decided to take out
&gt; &gt; the dashboard stuff and the air duct. I figured I might as well change
&gt; &gt; a faulty couple of lightbulbs in my dash while I was at it.
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; There was indeed a crack in the assembly. Also I made a discovery,
&gt; &gt; which I'll call Problem 1 (see below).
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; Problem 1: The top bolt post for the assembly pulled out of its former
&gt; &gt; location on the car body, leaving a hole. I ended up drilling straight
&gt; &gt; up into the next piece of metal above where the bolt was welded (near
&gt; &gt; the back of the dash) and running a piece of all-thread with washers
&gt; &gt; through the body to hold the upper end of the bracket. I think it will
&gt; &gt; hold, and it feels stable.
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; Problem 2: My parts guy gave me a bracket that isn't quite identical to
&gt; &gt; the one I took out. Everything seems to fit fine, but the brake light
&gt; &gt; switch is too far away from the brake levers. I rigged a bumper for the
&gt; &gt; switch out of strips of rubber, a strap of metal, and some duct tape.
&gt; &gt; It seems to work, but I need a switch with a longer button (or a brake
&gt; &gt; lever with a bigger &quot;bump.&quot; Hooray duct tape!
&gt; &gt;
&gt; &gt; Problem 3: Now the car won't run right. See my new post. ARGH!

Report this message