| Stuck spark plugs [message #781964] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 04:19 |
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Trying to put in new plugs. 1989 Chevy truck 350 engine. Cast iron heads.
Two of the plugs are stuck tight. When I put pressure on the wrench it just
does move. It feels like the threads are fixing to gauld. Now, before I
wring these threads out, how is the best way to remove these plugs? Thanks
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781965 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 04:29 |
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Forgot to ask: What is the best thing to put on the threads when installing
plugs to allow easy removal next time?
"Chief McGee" <mcgeepby [at] mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:eXfwg.1092400$xm3.1082102 [at] attbi_s21...
> Trying to put in new plugs. 1989 Chevy truck 350 engine. Cast iron heads.
> Two of the plugs are stuck tight. When I put pressure on the wrench it
just
> does move. It feels like the threads are fixing to gauld. Now, before I
> wring these threads out, how is the best way to remove these plugs?
Thanks
>
>
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781966 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 05:43 |
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"Chief McGee" <mcgeepby [at] mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:Z3gwg.849493$084.789491 [at] attbi_s22...
> Forgot to ask: What is the best thing to put on the threads when
> installing
> plugs to allow easy removal next time?
>
> "Chief McGee" <mcgeepby [at] mchsi.com> wrote in message
> news:eXfwg.1092400$xm3.1082102 [at] attbi_s21...
>> Trying to put in new plugs. 1989 Chevy truck 350 engine. Cast iron
>> heads.
>> Two of the plugs are stuck tight. When I put pressure on the wrench it
> just
>> does move. It feels like the threads are fixing to gauld. Now, before I
>> wring these threads out, how is the best way to remove these plugs?
> Thanks
>>
Anti-seize compound.
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781971 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 09:08 |
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"Chief McGee" <mcgeepby [at] mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:eXfwg.1092400$xm3.1082102 [at] attbi_s21...
> Trying to put in new plugs. 1989 Chevy truck 350 engine. Cast iron heads.
> Two of the plugs are stuck tight. When I put pressure on the wrench it
> just
> does move. It feels like the threads are fixing to gauld. Now, before I
> wring these threads out, how is the best way to remove these plugs?
> Thanks
>
>
I know it's uncomfortable, but run engine & get it HOT & try them.
Also, 'rig' your pull handle/ratchet in a way as to enable bumping the
handle. Just like an air wrench's vibrating motion loosens nuts with less
force than might be needed in a direct pull. HTH, s
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781972 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 09:19 |
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That can turn into a real nasty problem - I'd use wd-40 and then try a deep
straight, anti-swivel spark plug socket. one with the rubber inside attached
to a long extension that you don't need and smack straight on using a large
brass hammer. Make sure it's inline with the spark plug then try to loosen.
Also you might try a wad of paper inside the socket because the idea is to
hit the spark plug nut and not the head!!!
--
There are no words that can be heard unless someone listens....
"Chief McGee" <mcgeepby [at] mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:eXfwg.1092400$xm3.1082102 [at] attbi_s21...
> Trying to put in new plugs. 1989 Chevy truck 350 engine. Cast iron heads.
> Two of the plugs are stuck tight. When I put pressure on the wrench it
just
> does move. It feels like the threads are fixing to gauld. Now, before I
> wring these threads out, how is the best way to remove these plugs?
Thanks
>
>
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781980 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 14:32 |
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Post removed (X-No-Archive: yes)
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781982 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 16:00 |
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P B Blaster is good penetrating oil. Spray the plug base a couple of
times and let it soak overnight. Spray again and try to loosen them.
Candle wax is a good but hard to get it where it needs to go on the V8
Chevy. Old time trick was to spray with Oil of Wintergreen ( works
great). I still use it on occasion but Blaster is more readily
available. Good luck and best regards
Chief McGee wrote:
> Trying to put in new plugs. 1989 Chevy truck 350 engine. Cast iron heads.
> Two of the plugs are stuck tight. When I put pressure on the wrench it just
> does move. It feels like the threads are fixing to gauld. Now, before I
> wring these threads out, how is the best way to remove these plugs? Thanks
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781984 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 16:07 |
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I am curious as to why you would use a water displacement fluid on it?
He isn't complaining of spark leak, he has stuck threads.
Using a hammer on the end of it will just smash the porcelain.
Using a hammer on a long socket on it will just dent the head and socket
and is most likely to snap the porcelain also.
Maybe he could use some penetrating oil like liquid wrench or PB blaster
or such on it and then give the socket wrench handle a hit in a
rotational direction or get a bigger (longer) wrench handle so he has
more torque....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=211514759 0
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Daryl Bryant wrote:
>
> That can turn into a real nasty problem - I'd use wd-40 and then try a deep
> straight, anti-swivel spark plug socket. one with the rubber inside attached
> to a long extension that you don't need and smack straight on using a large
> brass hammer. Make sure it's inline with the spark plug then try to loosen.
> Also you might try a wad of paper inside the socket because the idea is to
> hit the spark plug nut and not the head!!!
> --
> There are no words that can be heard unless someone listens....
> "Chief McGee" <mcgeepby [at] mchsi.com> wrote in message
> news:eXfwg.1092400$xm3.1082102 [at] attbi_s21...
> > Trying to put in new plugs. 1989 Chevy truck 350 engine. Cast iron heads.
> > Two of the plugs are stuck tight. When I put pressure on the wrench it
> just
> > does move. It feels like the threads are fixing to gauld. Now, before I
> > wring these threads out, how is the best way to remove these plugs?
> Thanks
> >
> >
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781985 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 16:09 |
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I'd spray the wells with wd-40, let it work.
>mho
>v fe
>w o o d s y =A0t h e =A0o w l=A0 s e z,
>g i v e =A0a =A0h o o t ! =A0d o n 't =A0p o l l u t e......
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781986 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 17:03 |
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Why would you spray the wells with water displacement fluid? The damage
is done, the plugs are already stuck, there is no more water to soak up.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=211514759 0
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
fiveiron [at] webtv.net wrote:
>
> I'd spray the wells with wd-40, let it work.
>
> >mho
> >v fe
>
> >w o o d s y t h e o w l s e z,
> >g i v e a h o o t ! d o n 't p o l l u t e......
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781988 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 17:24 |
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"Daryl Bryant" <nonono [at] 1verizon.net> wrote in message
news:eIadndnhVs3xTFzZnZ2dnUVZ_rSdnZ2d [at] giganews.com...
> That can turn into a real nasty problem - I'd use wd-40 and then try a
deep
> straight, anti-swivel spark plug socket. one with the rubber inside
attached
> to a long extension that you don't need and smack straight on using a
large
> brass hammer. Make sure it's inline with the spark plug then try to
loosen.
> Also you might try a wad of paper inside the socket because the idea is to
> hit the spark plug nut and not the head!!!
I do something like this. I take a good penetrating spray, and use it to
wash out
the spark plug depression before I try to remove the plugs. Then I
alternately
tighten and loosen slightly to allow the penetrant to go into the plug
threads.
No brute force. That can buy you trouble.
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781991 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 18:01 |
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fiveiron [at] webtv.net wrote:
> I'd spray the wells with wd-40, let it work.
I agree with Mike on this one. WD-40 (Water Displacement. 40th attempt
made it okay to sell) is good for drying out a distributor cap and not
much more. There are plenty of good penetrating oils out there. WD-40
is not one of them. I use B'laster because it's readily available in my
area. There are others.
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781993 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 18:25 |
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> Why would you spray the wells with water displacement fluid? The damage
> is done, the plugs are already stuck, there is no more water to soak up.
>
True, but WD-40 is basically kerosene and peanut oil in a spray can. It
will work to loosen stuck fasteners if you can get it into the proper
area, but there are better alternatives.
Another possibility(which has worked for me when doing suspension work
on an original 74 super beetle) is to use the really cheap "SuperTech
spray penetrating lubricant" that wal-mart sells for less than a buck.
I soaked every suspension fastener on the beetle with it for 2-3 days
in a row and when I took it apart I did not strip a single bolt. The
trick is to get the fasteners multiple times and give it time to soak
in.
When putting in the new plugs put some anti-sieze on the threads.
Chris
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781994 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 18:29 |
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Kruse wrote:
>
> fiveiron [at] webtv.net wrote:
> > I'd spray the wells with wd-40, let it work.
>
> I agree with Mike on this one. WD-40 (Water Displacement. 40th attempt
> made it okay to sell) is good for drying out a distributor cap and not
> much more. There are plenty of good penetrating oils out there. WD-40
> is not one of them. I use B'laster because it's readily available in my
> area. There are others.
I live in the rust belt and what takes WD40 over a week of several time
a day applications to penetrate can be obtained in a half hour soak with
PB blaster or Home Hardware's KP53 or even liquid wrench.
Brake fluid is better penetrant that WD40 even.
Mike
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #781996 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 19:10 |
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In news:arrwg.11121$2v.4984 [at] newssvr25.news.prodigy.net,
HLS [at] nospam.nix <HLS [at] nospam.nix> typed:
> "Daryl Bryant" <nonono [at] 1verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:eIadndnhVs3xTFzZnZ2dnUVZ_rSdnZ2d [at] giganews.com...
> > That can turn into a real nasty problem - I'd use wd-40 and
> > then
> > try a deep straight, anti-swivel spark plug socket. one with
> > the
> > rubber inside attached to a long extension that you don't
> > need and
> > smack straight on using a large brass hammer. Make sure it's
> > inline
> > with the spark plug then try to loosen. Also you might try a
> > wad of
> > paper inside the socket because the idea is to hit the spark
> > plug
> > nut and not the head!!!
>
> I do something like this. I take a good penetrating spray, and
> use
> it to wash out
> the spark plug depression before I try to remove the plugs.
> Then I
> alternately
> tighten and loosen slightly to allow the penetrant to go into
> the plug
> threads.
>
> No brute force. That can buy you trouble.
IMO that's good advice. It sounds counter-productive, but I've
often had luck with trying to tighten/loosen/tighten/loosen/...
and: Using a metal hammer (easy!) to tap the end of the ratchet
seems to help get the liquid wrench/whatever to work into the
threads better too. Careful with the hammer though; the idea is
to create a shock wave, not break anything with that hammer!
Pop`
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #782003 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 23:01 |
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<HLS [at] nospam.nix> wrote in message
news:arrwg.11121$2v.4984 [at] newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...
>
> "Daryl Bryant" <nonono [at] 1verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:eIadndnhVs3xTFzZnZ2dnUVZ_rSdnZ2d [at] giganews.com...
> > That can turn into a real nasty problem - I'd use wd-40 and then try a
> deep
> > straight, anti-swivel spark plug socket. one with the rubber inside
> attached
> > to a long extension that you don't need and smack straight on using a
> large
> > brass hammer. Make sure it's inline with the spark plug then try to
> loosen.
> > Also you might try a wad of paper inside the socket because the idea is
to
> > hit the spark plug nut and not the head!!!
>
> I do something like this. I take a good penetrating spray, and use it to
> wash out
> the spark plug depression before I try to remove the plugs. Then I
> alternately
> tighten and loosen slightly to allow the penetrant to go into the plug
> threads.
Didn't think of that - excellent idea!! <smiles>
> No brute force. That can buy you trouble.
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #782005 ] |
Sat, 22 July 2006 23:23 |
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"Mike Romain" <romainm [at] sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44C2313E.95741BE9 [at] sympatico.ca...
> I am curious as to why you would use a water displacement fluid on it?
> He isn't complaining of spark leak, he has stuck threads.
WD40 is penetrating oil too i.e. breaks up the rust in my experience and
helps to loosen nuts and bolts
Also cleans gum and a bunch of other great uses - idon't like those graphite
penetrating oils - freaks me out watchin it seep into spark plug holes -
just my opinion!
> Using a hammer on the end of it will just smash the porcelain.
only if the socket comes into contact with the porcelain - that's why I
would use a sparkplug socket with one of them rubber inserts and perhaps a
wad of paper around the nut so it doesn't come into contact with the
porcelain - the wad of paper around nut keeps the spark plug socket from
coming into contact with the head!
Your right you don't wanna hit/dent the head :-)
> Using a hammer on a long socket on it will just dent the head and socket
> and is most likely to snap the porcelain also.
>
> Maybe he could use some penetrating oil like liquid wrench or PB blaster
> or such on it and then give the socket wrench handle a hit in a
> rotational direction or get a bigger (longer) wrench handle so he has
> more torque....
That mite work as well - cept if more torque is applied wouldn't that also
perhaps strip the head?
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=211514759 0
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Daryl Bryant wrote:
> >
> > That can turn into a real nasty problem - I'd use wd-40 and then try a
deep
> > straight, anti-swivel spark plug socket. one with the rubber inside
attached
> > to a long extension that you don't need and smack straight on using a
large
> > brass hammer. Make sure it's inline with the spark plug then try to
loosen.
> > Also you might try a wad of paper inside the socket because the idea is
to
> > hit the spark plug nut and not the head!!!
> > --
> > There are no words that can be heard unless someone listens....
> > "Chief McGee" <mcgeepby [at] mchsi.com> wrote in message
> > news:eXfwg.1092400$xm3.1082102 [at] attbi_s21...
> > > Trying to put in new plugs. 1989 Chevy truck 350 engine. Cast iron
heads.
> > > Two of the plugs are stuck tight. When I put pressure on the wrench
it
> > just
> > > does move. It feels like the threads are fixing to gauld. Now,
before I
> > > wring these threads out, how is the best way to remove these plugs?
> > Thanks
> > >
> > >
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #782008 ] |
Sun, 23 July 2006 00:05 |
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Daryl Bryant wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm [at] sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:44C2313E.95741BE9 [at] sympatico.ca...
> > I am curious as to why you would use a water displacement fluid on it?
> > He isn't complaining of spark leak, he has stuck threads.
>
> WD40 is penetrating oil too i.e. breaks up the rust in my experience and
> helps to loosen nuts and bolts
> Also cleans gum and a bunch of other great uses - idon't like those graphite
> penetrating oils - freaks me out watchin it seep into spark plug holes -
> just my opinion!
Penetrating oil will seep into a part in an hour at most. WD40 takes a
week at least to do the same penetrating. I am in the rust belt and it
(WD40) really doesn't work up here for penetrating. If stuck I use
brake fluid, it goes in nice.
WD40 is a great cleaner for things like starters and alternators too.
When I off road I tend to fill things with mud...
>
> > Using a hammer on the end of it will just smash the porcelain.
>
> only if the socket comes into contact with the porcelain - that's why I
> would use a sparkplug socket with one of them rubber inserts and perhaps a
> wad of paper around the nut so it doesn't come into contact with the
> porcelain - the wad of paper around nut keeps the spark plug socket from
> coming into contact with the head!
Ya , their is a problem with what you are saying. The socket is resting
on the engine head, not the plug, so hitting on the socket is pretty
useless except for snapping off plug tips. The head isn't square in
there so when you hit the socket it wants to tilt which will usually
snap it off faster than you can blink.. Adding the rubber insert makes
it worse if anything.
>
> Your right you don't wanna hit/dent the head :-)
>
> > Using a hammer on a long socket on it will just dent the head and socket
> > and is most likely to snap the porcelain also.
> >
> > Maybe he could use some penetrating oil like liquid wrench or PB blaster
> > or such on it and then give the socket wrench handle a hit in a
> > rotational direction or get a bigger (longer) wrench handle so he has
> > more torque....
>
> That mite work as well - cept if more torque is applied wouldn't that also
> perhaps strip the head?
If you have a good quality 6 sided socket, you can put a lot on it
without stripping. Cheap sockets can stretch.
>
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=211514759 0
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Daryl Bryant wrote:
> > >
> > > That can turn into a real nasty problem - I'd use wd-40 and then try a
> deep
> > > straight, anti-swivel spark plug socket. one with the rubber inside
> attached
> > > to a long extension that you don't need and smack straight on using a
> large
> > > brass hammer. Make sure it's inline with the spark plug then try to
> loosen.
> > > Also you might try a wad of paper inside the socket because the idea is
> to
> > > hit the spark plug nut and not the head!!!
> > > --
> > > There are no words that can be heard unless someone listens....
> > > "Chief McGee" <mcgeepby [at] mchsi.com> wrote in message
> > > news:eXfwg.1092400$xm3.1082102 [at] attbi_s21...
> > > > Trying to put in new plugs. 1989 Chevy truck 350 engine. Cast iron
> heads.
> > > > Two of the plugs are stuck tight. When I put pressure on the wrench
> it
> > > just
> > > > does move. It feels like the threads are fixing to gauld. Now,
> before I
> > > > wring these threads out, how is the best way to remove these plugs?
> > > Thanks
> > > >
> > > >
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #782010 ] |
Sun, 23 July 2006 01:43 |
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Mike Romain wrote:
<el snippo>
>
> Penetrating oil will seep into a part in an hour at most. WD40 takes a
> week at least to do the same penetrating. I am in the rust belt and it
> (WD40) really doesn't work up here for penetrating. If stuck I use
> brake fluid, it goes in nice.
>
agreed! WD-40 has its uses, but penetrating oil... well, only if I have
a job where the stuff that needs penetrating oil really isn't stuck all
that bad, and I don't have any REAL penetrating oil. PB Blaster is
widely available and kicks WD-40's ass as a penetrating oil. Kroil and
Wuerth Rost Off are even better, but those generally have to be mail
ordered.
> WD40 is a great cleaner for things like starters and alternators too.
> When I off road I tend to fill things with mud...
I prefer to use a dedicated electrical parts cleaner, it dries without
leaving a residue. I think CRC makes the one that my FLAPS carries.
>
> Ya , their is a problem with what you are saying. The socket is resting
> on the engine head, not the plug, so hitting on the socket is pretty
> useless except for snapping off plug tips. The head isn't square in
> there so when you hit the socket it wants to tilt which will usually
> snap it off faster than you can blink.. Adding the rubber insert makes
> it worse if anything.
>
How about using a deep socket of smaller diameter? then you could try
tapping on the hex of the plug to hopefully set up some vibration and
help the penetrating oil do its thing.
nate
(never had a plug seize, thankfully, but did actually strip one on a '51
Commander today, first time I ever saw that happen.)
--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
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| Re: Stuck spark plugs [message #782044 ] |
Sun, 23 July 2006 20:22 |
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"Daryl Bryant" <nonono [at] 1verizon.net> wrote in message
news:ApGdnW7hkd_BCl_ZnZ2dnUVZ_vCdnZ2d [at] giganews.com...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm [at] sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:44C2313E.95741BE9 [at] sympatico.ca...
> > I am curious as to why you would use a water displacement fluid on it?
> > He isn't complaining of spark leak, he has stuck threads.
>
> WD40 is penetrating oil too i.e. breaks up the rust in my experience and
> helps to loosen nuts and bolts
> Also cleans gum and a bunch of other great uses - idon't like those
graphite
> penetrating oils - freaks me out watchin it seep into spark plug holes -
> just my opinion!
It does have some lubricating properties, Daryl, and is helpful for many
things.
WD-40 does not have the additives which would help give it the extreme
pressure
properties that we might like for some applications.
As Mike has mentioned, it was primarily developed as a Water Dispersant, and
it works well for that. I wouldn't be without a can of it.
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