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Motorcycles » uk.rec.motorcycles » FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal
| FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780492] |
Sat, 15 July 2006 22:58 |
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The wheels on the GTS are a bit scabby , so before I set to with the
polishing mops and the black and decker what is he best way of removing the
old lacquer . Chemicals , wet and dry , elbow grease?
Ta
Steve
--
1984 BMW R80ST
1993 GTS1000
1999 VN800
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| Re: FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780497 ] |
Sat, 15 July 2006 23:14 |
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Steve <steveloukes [at] hotmail.com> wrote in
news:C0DF1581.1DDA9%steveloukes [at] hotmail.com:
> The wheels on the GTS are a bit scabby , so before I set to with the
> polishing mops and the black and decker what is he best way of
> removing the old lacquer . Chemicals , wet and dry , elbow grease?
>
Acme Turd Polisher aka angle grinder
--
wessie at tesco dot net
BMW R1150GS
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| Re: FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780522 ] |
Sun, 16 July 2006 00:58 |
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"Steve" <steveloukes [at] hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:C0DF1581.1DDA9%steveloukes [at] hotmail.com...
> The wheels on the GTS are a bit scabby , so before I set to with the
> polishing mops and the black and decker what is he best way of removing
> the
> old lacquer . Chemicals , wet and dry , elbow grease?
Nitromors.
--
Beav
VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19
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| Re: FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780530 ] |
Sun, 16 July 2006 08:54 |
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On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 21:58:25 +0100, Steve wrote:
> The wheels on the GTS are a bit scabby , so before I set to with the
> polishing mops and the black and decker what is he best way of removing the
> old lacquer . Chemicals , wet and dry , elbow grease?
Glass bead blasting.
Well, you *did* ask about the best way...
Otherwise, I'd be tempted to clean up the surface, rough it up a tad and
blow it over with some fresh paint.
--
Morini Corsaro 125 | CB450K4 | R1150GSA | XL250 Motosport x2 | 900SSD
Triumph T-Bird chop BOTAFOF #33 TWA#10
The UKRM FAQ: http://www.ukrm.net/faq/index.html
"Je profite du paysage" - Joe Bar
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| Re: FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780547 ] |
Sun, 16 July 2006 10:37 |
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Steve <steveloukes [at] hotmail.com> wrote in
news:C0DF1581.1DDA9%steveloukes [at] hotmail.com:
> The wheels on the GTS are a bit scabby , so before I set to with the
> polishing mops and the black and decker what is he best way of
> removing the old lacquer . Chemicals , wet and dry , elbow grease?
The general consensus seems to be, that brake fluid (traditional DOT 4)
will dissolve just about any kind of paint/lacquer - so maybe..!?
Disclaimer: I haven't tested DOT 4 as a paint-stripper, so I wouldn't
know if it only works when applied accidentally! :-|
- Just a thought...
/claus
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| Re: FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780549 ] |
Sun, 16 July 2006 11:00 |
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On 16 Jul 2006 08:37:04 GMT, FooBar <noone [at] nowhere.undeliverable>
wrote:
>Steve <steveloukes [at] hotmail.com> wrote in
>news:C0DF1581.1DDA9%steveloukes [at] hotmail.com:
>
>> The wheels on the GTS are a bit scabby , so before I set to with the
>> polishing mops and the black and decker what is he best way of
>> removing the old lacquer . Chemicals , wet and dry , elbow grease?
>
>The general consensus seems to be, that brake fluid (traditional DOT 4)
>will dissolve just about any kind of paint/lacquer - so maybe..!?
Yes, it will. However, brake fluid is expensive and nasty 'orrible
stuff to boot. For stripping a wheel with the tyre still on it has a
certain merit, as brake fluid is designed to be in contact with rubber
and therefore won't attack the tyre whereas a dedicated stripper may.
>
>Disclaimer: I haven't tested DOT 4 as a paint-stripper, so I wouldn't
>know if it only works when applied accidentally! :-|
I'd always use a purpose-designed tool (in this case a pukka stripper)
in preference to a wrong 'un or a bodge. In this case, where the work
is elective and non-urgent, I'd wait until I had a can of Nitromors or
similar ready.
Could do with a signature separator in here, Santa ...
>/claus
... then you wouldn't leave the nice people who reply to you
the task of manually removing your sig from the end of your posts.
Ask for one for Christmas, or perhaps just save dashdashspacereturn as
the top line of your .sig.
--
Pip: B12
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| Re: FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780550 ] |
Sun, 16 July 2006 11:10 |
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Pip <gingerblokeNOSPAM [at] NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote in
news:smvjb2p5alp4h0qjsq18crv8m3t003bsrc [at] 4ax.com:
> Yes, it will. However, brake fluid is expensive and nasty 'orrible
> stuff to boot. For stripping a wheel with the tyre still on it has a
> certain merit, as brake fluid is designed to be in contact with rubber
> and therefore won't attack the tyre whereas a dedicated stripper may.
Good point...
> Could do with a signature separator in here, Santa ...
Even better point!
*Crawls shamefully back under rock*
--
/claus
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| Re: FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780551 ] |
Sun, 16 July 2006 11:26 |
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On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 22:58:01 GMT, "Beav"
<beavis.original [at] ntlwoxorld.com> wrote:
>"Steve" <steveloukes [at] hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:C0DF1581.1DDA9%steveloukes [at] hotmail.com...
>> The wheels on the GTS are a bit scabby , so before I set to with the
>> polishing mops and the black and decker what is he best way of removing
>> the
>> old lacquer . Chemicals , wet and dry , elbow grease?
>
>Nitromors.
Aye, first. Then it depends on the replacement for the "scabby
lacquer". Wet and dry - naah, not with a power drill and polishing
mops/compounds available.
One should bear in mind that bare alloy polished bits look really good
when shiny, but require a fair amount of upkeep. Lacquer protects the
finish and is a fucksight easier to keep clean, but won't stick to a
highly polished surface very well for very long. Better to leave a
slightly rough surface as a key for a coating. Not so shiny, but
easier to maintain.
A big question when polishing wheels is always - as with so many
things - where to stop. Polishing rims is one thing, spokes another
altogether. If leaving the rough-cast centre line and spokes painted
or lacquered, a clean line between polish and coating is preferable
but not always easy to achieve. I've employed a strip of masking
tape, cut through to the substrate with a /sharp/ blade to the desired
line in the past to good effect.
Any way around there's a deal of elbow grease in the future of the OP.
Steve would have been far better off swapping his V-Max for my shiny
Bandit, with wheels already anodised and polished ;-)
--
Pip: B12
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| Re: FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780553 ] |
Sun, 16 July 2006 11:27 |
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On 16 Jul 2006 09:10:56 GMT, FooBar <noone [at] nowhere.undeliverable>
wrote:
>Pip <gingerblokeNOSPAM [at] NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote in
>news:smvjb2p5alp4h0qjsq18crv8m3t003bsrc [at] 4ax.com:
>> Could do with a signature separator in here, Santa ...
>
>Even better point!
>
>*Crawls shamefully back under rock*
That made me smile ;-)
--
Pip: B12
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| Re: FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780560 ] |
Sun, 16 July 2006 12:22 |
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Pip wrote:
> On 16 Jul 2006 09:10:56 GMT, FooBar <noone [at] nowhere.undeliverable>
> wrote:
>
> >Pip <gingerblokeNOSPAM [at] NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote in
> > news:smvjb2p5alp4h0qjsq18crv8m3t003bsrc [at] 4ax.com:
>
> >> Could do with a signature separator in here, Santa ...
> >
> > Even better point!
> >
> > *Crawls shamefully back under rock*
>
> That made me smile ;-)
He's heard about you before! :-)
--
Cab :^) - argue's like a girl
GSX 1400
UKRMMA#10 (KOTL), IbW#015, BoB#4, POTM#3, SKA#1
email addy : ukrm_dot_cab_at_rosbif_dot_org
http://www.rosbif.org
The gingeometer: http://www.rosbif.org/ukrm/gingeometer/
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| Re: FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780562 ] |
Sun, 16 July 2006 12:42 |
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"Pip" <gingerblokeNOSPAM [at] NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote in message
news:i20kb2pgrer3vgdmhhegg73s06s0ama20l [at] 4ax.com...
> On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 22:58:01 GMT, "Beav"
> <beavis.original [at] ntlwoxorld.com> wrote:
>
>>"Steve" <steveloukes [at] hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:C0DF1581.1DDA9%steveloukes [at] hotmail.com...
>>> The wheels on the GTS are a bit scabby , so before I set to with the
>>> polishing mops and the black and decker what is he best way of removing
>>> the
>>> old lacquer . Chemicals , wet and dry , elbow grease?
>>
>>Nitromors.
>
> Aye, first. Then it depends on the replacement for the "scabby
> lacquer". Wet and dry - naah, not with a power drill and polishing
> mops/compounds available.
Me and the boy-chic sent his wheels to have them polished after having a
chat with the polisher who SAID he's use a chemical strpiper on the rims
(not the spokes), then titivate them with the mops. Wasn't the fucking case
though. When they came back, they'd been sorely abused with a fuck off big
polisher and the rims are all shapes. I spent the best part of a day with
800's wet and dry, followed by 2000's before they were REALLY reasy for
plishing again. I even did the last part by hand. I wish I'd done the lot
myself after seeing 'em.
>
> One should bear in mind that bare alloy polished bits look really good
> when shiny, but require a fair amount of upkeep.
If the surface is *really really* flat before the final polishing, the time
between Autosol treatments drops by a magnitude though. There are also some
products on the market that claim to reduce the need to use metal polish for
two years (Zoopseal being one). I can't say I've a lot of confidence in them
though, as they don't work worth a shit and at 100 quid a pop for a
"treatment box", they're not cheap either.
Lacquer protects the
> finish and is a fucksight easier to keep clean, but won't stick to a
> highly polished surface very well for very long.
I spoke to Lechler about that. They say they have a clear coat that *does*
stay put on polished ali, but on further investigation it's just their
commercial lacquer normally used for lorries. I've yet to try that.
Better to leave a
> slightly rough surface as a key for a coating. Not so shiny, but
> easier to maintain.
Polish then a quick once over with a GREY Scotch-brite pad. Not red, unless
you want to start all over again.
>
> A big question when polishing wheels is always - as with so many
> things - where to stop. Polishing rims is one thing, spokes another
> altogether.
He:-) So true.
If leaving the rough-cast centre line and spokes painted
> or lacquered, a clean line between polish and coating is preferable
> but not always easy to achieve. I've employed a strip of masking
> tape, cut through to the substrate with a /sharp/ blade to the desired
> line in the past to good effect.
I now use 3M fine-line tape. It's leaves a razor line and it's easy to
maintain the correct edge when applying it too.
>
>
> Any way around there's a deal of elbow grease in the future of the OP.
> Steve would have been far better off swapping his V-Max for my shiny
> Bandit, with wheels already anodised and polished ;-)
But he wouldn't have that wonderful feeling of "Thank fuck *that's*
finished".
--
Beav
VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19
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| Re: FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780620 ] |
Sun, 16 July 2006 18:06 |
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On 16/7/06 10:26, in article i20kb2pgrer3vgdmhhegg73s06s0ama20l [at] 4ax.com,
"Pip" <gingerblokeNOSPAM [at] NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote:
<snip>
>
> Any way around there's a deal of elbow grease in the future of the OP.
> Steve would have been far better off swapping his V-Max for my shiny
> Bandit, with wheels already anodised and polished ;-)
Sorry 'bout that - scabby wheels aside the GTS is lovely.Even went straight
through the MOT yesterday :)
Steve
--
1984 BMW R80ST
1993 GTS1000
1999 VN800
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| Re: FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal [message #780661 ] |
Sun, 16 July 2006 20:43 |
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Pip wrote:
> On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 22:58:01 GMT, "Beav"
> <beavis.original [at] ntlwoxorld.com> wrote:
>
>> "Steve" <steveloukes [at] hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:C0DF1581.1DDA9%steveloukes [at] hotmail.com...
>>> The wheels on the GTS are a bit scabby , so before I set to with the
>>> polishing mops and the black and decker what is he best way of
>>> removing the
>>> old lacquer . Chemicals , wet and dry , elbow grease?
>>
>> Nitromors.
>
> Aye, first. Then it depends on the replacement for the "scabby
> lacquer". Wet and dry - naah, not with a power drill and polishing
> mops/compounds available.
>
> One should bear in mind that bare alloy polished bits look really good
> when shiny, but require a fair amount of upkeep. Lacquer protects the
> finish and is a fucksight easier to keep clean, but won't stick to a
> highly polished surface very well for very long. Better to leave a
> slightly rough surface as a key for a coating. Not so shiny, but
> easier to maintain.
I have once succeeded having a clear expoy powder coat done on some matt
polished ally which was quite nice and lasted the course.
--
Hog
'96 Bastard12 '89 R100RS '81 XS650 '78 RD400
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