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Motorcycles » rec.motorcycles.tech » restoration tips
| restoration tips [message #517156] |
Sun, 13 November 2005 11:34 |
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My 85 shadow has the normal aluminum corrosion, pitting, discoloration, etc.
Nothing major but I'd like to do something about it. Is there a way to restore
things like the crankcase covers to their original brillance without removing
them from the bike?
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517158 ] |
Sun, 13 November 2005 12:36 |
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checkers <checkers_member [at] newsguy.com> wrote:
> My 85 shadow has the normal aluminum corrosion, pitting, discoloration, etc.
> Nothing major but I'd like to do something about it. Is there a way to restore
> things like the crankcase covers to their original brillance without removing
> them from the bike?
Yes. Paint stripper to remove the knackered lacquer (if they were
lacquered), and then lots of time with a polishing kit. Lots and lots of
elbow grease. There's no easy way.
--
Trophy 1200 750SS XS650x2 CB400F CB125S DT50MX
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517165 ] |
Sun, 13 November 2005 19:37 |
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checkers <checkers_member [at] newsguy.com> wrote in
news:dl74r102t09 [at] drn.newsguy.com:
> My 85 shadow has the normal aluminum corrosion, pitting, discoloration,
> etc. Nothing major but I'd like to do something about it. Is there a way
> to restore things like the crankcase covers to their original brillance
> without removing them from the bike?
>
The short answer is 'No'. The covers have to come off for a variety of
reasons which are detailed below.
Most aluminum covers have a "brushed" finish. To achive that same look
a little experimentation (read trial and error) is necessary. 800 grit
wet/dry sandpaper is a good place to start. You might have to try a few
grits to get the look you want. Wet sandpaper, lots os water and gobs
of patience are a must.
Take the covers off. Just go down to Honda and order up some
gaskets before you start. They are usually cheap and, if your luck is
like mine, having them on hand will guarantee that the original gaskets will
not be destroyed upon removal of the cover. If the screws are phillips
head, make sure you use the right sized bits and tap them in the
screw with a small hammer. Honda loves to really torque them down.
I have a variety of bits that I use with both my 1/4 and 3/8 drive
ratchet. To date I have not had to drill out a boogered phillips
screw on my ancient Honda. Make sure you have the right size
phillips bit. Just because it seems it seems to fit doesn't mean
it is the right size. Use the biggest phillips bit that grips it
securely.
Honda puts a clear coat on their aluminum pieces to give it a harder
surface and to protect from corrosion. Removal of the clear coat is
necessary for obvious reasons and the best way is to use paint
remover. Paint remover around a bike is asking for trouble. One
oopsie and there is a nice shiny spot on your tank or frame or ???.
You could polish the aluminum to a mirror finish that looks like chrome,
but it is a time consuming process that can be painful. Aluminum is
quite soft and scratches easily. Even using a terry cloth to polish
will show up when you try to get that chrome look. I don't recommend
it.
Here is an example of what you can get when you polish aluminum.
http://www.mtm-online.de/en/showbild.php?id=2&table=high lights&bild=0&galerie=galerie1
Yes, the Audi A8 has an aluminum body and frame. All I can say is
that in the case of the polished A8, door dings are a bitch. I am not
sure that one can miss that critter going down the road. The glare
must be atrocious. I wonder what it is like driving into the
sunset. (:>)
Clear coat to use afterwards? I would try the Yamaha clear coat. It
is tough, readily available, and a high temp formula.
pierce
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517168 ] |
Sun, 13 November 2005 20:53 |
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R. Pierce Butler <spamsucks [at] google.com> wrote:
> Paint remover around a bike is asking for trouble. One
> oopsie and there is a nice shiny spot on your tank or frame or ???.
I've used paint stripper on casings for decades, and as long as you're
careful (like protecting painted surfaces) there's no problem at all.
--
Trophy 1200 750SS XS650x2 CB400F CB125S DT50MX
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517171 ] |
Sun, 13 November 2005 22:11 |
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chateauSPAMKILL.murray [at] dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) wrote in
news:1h5zdle.14wsi4swn5iz0N%chateauSPAMKILL.murray [at] dsl.pipex.com:
> R. Pierce Butler <spamsucks [at] google.com> wrote:
>
>> Paint remover around a bike is asking for trouble. One
>> oopsie and there is a nice shiny spot on your tank or frame or ???.
>
> I've used paint stripper on casings for decades, and as long as you're
> careful (like protecting painted surfaces) there's no problem at all.
>
>
I am just not that lucky. Something would slop somewhere and i would be
upset.
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517174 ] |
Sun, 13 November 2005 23:50 |
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R. Pierce Butler <spamsucks [at] google.com> wrote:
> chateauSPAMKILL.murray [at] dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) wrote in
> news:1h5zdle.14wsi4swn5iz0N%chateauSPAMKILL.murray [at] dsl.pipex.com:
>
> > R. Pierce Butler <spamsucks [at] google.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Paint remover around a bike is asking for trouble. One
> >> oopsie and there is a nice shiny spot on your tank or frame or ???.
> >
> > I've used paint stripper on casings for decades, and as long as you're
> > careful (like protecting painted surfaces) there's no problem at all.
> >
> >
>
> I am just not that lucky. Something would slop somewhere and i would be
> upset.
Heh. I like a man who's acutely aware of his own incompetence, and plans
accordingly ;-)
Did I tell you how I managed to set my speedo cable on fire?
--
Trophy 1200 750SS XS650x2 CB400F CB125S DT50MX
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517175 ] |
Sun, 13 November 2005 23:44 |
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Thanks for the valuable info!!!
In article <Xns970D806524FCAmc2500183316chgoill [at] 10.232.1.1>, R. Pierce Butler
says...
>
>checkers <checkers_member [at] newsguy.com> wrote in
>news:dl74r102t09 [at] drn.newsguy.com:
>
>> My 85 shadow has the normal aluminum corrosion, pitting, discoloration,
>> etc. Nothing major but I'd like to do something about it. Is there a way
>> to restore things like the crankcase covers to their original brillance
>> without removing them from the bike?
>>
>
>The short answer is 'No'. The covers have to come off for a variety of
>reasons which are detailed below.
>
>Most aluminum covers have a "brushed" finish. To achive that same look
>a little experimentation (read trial and error) is necessary. 800 grit
>wet/dry sandpaper is a good place to start. You might have to try a few
>grits to get the look you want. Wet sandpaper, lots os water and gobs
>of patience are a must.
>
>Take the covers off. Just go down to Honda and order up some
>gaskets before you start. They are usually cheap and, if your luck is
>like mine, having them on hand will guarantee that the original gaskets will
>not be destroyed upon removal of the cover. If the screws are phillips
>head, make sure you use the right sized bits and tap them in the
>screw with a small hammer. Honda loves to really torque them down.
>I have a variety of bits that I use with both my 1/4 and 3/8 drive
>ratchet. To date I have not had to drill out a boogered phillips
>screw on my ancient Honda. Make sure you have the right size
>phillips bit. Just because it seems it seems to fit doesn't mean
>it is the right size. Use the biggest phillips bit that grips it
>securely.
>
>Honda puts a clear coat on their aluminum pieces to give it a harder
>surface and to protect from corrosion. Removal of the clear coat is
>necessary for obvious reasons and the best way is to use paint
>remover. Paint remover around a bike is asking for trouble. One
>oopsie and there is a nice shiny spot on your tank or frame or ???.
>
>You could polish the aluminum to a mirror finish that looks like chrome,
>but it is a time consuming process that can be painful. Aluminum is
>quite soft and scratches easily. Even using a terry cloth to polish
>will show up when you try to get that chrome look. I don't recommend
>it.
>
>Here is an example of what you can get when you polish aluminum.
>
> http://www.mtm-online.de/en/showbild.php?id=2&table=high lights&bild=0&galerie=galerie1
>
>Yes, the Audi A8 has an aluminum body and frame. All I can say is
>that in the case of the polished A8, door dings are a bitch. I am not
>sure that one can miss that critter going down the road. The glare
>must be atrocious. I wonder what it is like driving into the
>sunset. (:>)
>
>Clear coat to use afterwards? I would try the Yamaha clear coat. It
>is tough, readily available, and a high temp formula.
>pierce
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517178 ] |
Sun, 13 November 2005 23:45 |
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Thanks for your input.
In article <1h5zdle.14wsi4swn5iz0N%chateauSPAMKILL.murray [at] dsl.pipex.com>, The
Older Gentleman says...
>
>R. Pierce Butler <spamsucks [at] google.com> wrote:
>
>> Paint remover around a bike is asking for trouble. One
>> oopsie and there is a nice shiny spot on your tank or frame or ???.
>
>I've used paint stripper on casings for decades, and as long as you're
>careful (like protecting painted surfaces) there's no problem at all.
>
>
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517179 ] |
Mon, 14 November 2005 01:13 |
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chateauSPAMKILL.murray [at] dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) wrote in
news:1h5zj2d.z0rknb37isemN%chateauSPAMKILL.murray [at] dsl.pipex.com:
> R. Pierce Butler <spamsucks [at] google.com> wrote:
>
>> chateauSPAMKILL.murray [at] dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) wrote in
>> news:1h5zdle.14wsi4swn5iz0N%chateauSPAMKILL.murray [at] dsl.pipex.com:
>>
>> > R. Pierce Butler <spamsucks [at] google.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Paint remover around a bike is asking for trouble. One
>> >> oopsie and there is a nice shiny spot on your tank or frame or ???.
>> >
>> > I've used paint stripper on casings for decades, and as long as you're
>> > careful (like protecting painted surfaces) there's no problem at all.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> I am just not that lucky. Something would slop somewhere and i would be
>> upset.
>
> Heh. I like a man who's acutely aware of his own incompetence, and plans
> accordingly ;-)
>
> Did I tell you how I managed to set my speedo cable on fire?
>
>
uhhh, no. Did I ever tell you about the time I took a cutting torch and
cut thru a 1 1/2 inch pipe filled with hydralic oil? It was rather
spectacular. Thankfully it wasn't under pressure.
pierce
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517180 ] |
Mon, 14 November 2005 01:19 |
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checkers <checkers_member [at] newsguy.com> wrote in
news:dl8fkq0n8o [at] drn.newsguy.com:
> Thanks for the valuable info!!!
>
>
I just went thru a restore of a 81 Honda a few months ago. It sat for 15
years. It was a long process to get that bike running right again. The
worst part is getting rid of the rust.
Be sure to add an inline fuel filter. A WIX 33011 would work nicely. I did
some calcualations on what that filter will trap and what it will pass and
what that would mean to my carbs. Anything that gets past that filter will
not plug up the idle jets. It would be like dropping a 1 inch diameter rock
down a 10 inch pipe.
pierce
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517181 ] |
Mon, 14 November 2005 01:59 |
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Will I need to take any special care when removing the crankcase covers, such as
looking for parts to become loose or "flying" away? Will I have to re-time the
engine or replace/reset shims when I reinstall the covers? I've never done
something like this before. I have no trouble working on cars but bikes make me
a little nervous. TIA
In article <Xns970D806524FCAmc2500183316chgoill [at] 10.232.1.1>, R. Pierce Butler
says...
>
>checkers <checkers_member [at] newsguy.com> wrote in
>news:dl74r102t09 [at] drn.newsguy.com:
>
>> My 85 shadow has the normal aluminum corrosion, pitting, discoloration,
>> etc. Nothing major but I'd like to do something about it. Is there a way
>> to restore things like the crankcase covers to their original brillance
>> without removing them from the bike?
>>
>
>The short answer is 'No'. The covers have to come off for a variety of
>reasons which are detailed below.
>
>Most aluminum covers have a "brushed" finish. To achive that same look
>a little experimentation (read trial and error) is necessary. 800 grit
>wet/dry sandpaper is a good place to start. You might have to try a few
>grits to get the look you want. Wet sandpaper, lots os water and gobs
>of patience are a must.
>
>Take the covers off. Just go down to Honda and order up some
>gaskets before you start. They are usually cheap and, if your luck is
>like mine, having them on hand will guarantee that the original gaskets will
>not be destroyed upon removal of the cover. If the screws are phillips
>head, make sure you use the right sized bits and tap them in the
>screw with a small hammer. Honda loves to really torque them down.
>I have a variety of bits that I use with both my 1/4 and 3/8 drive
>ratchet. To date I have not had to drill out a boogered phillips
>screw on my ancient Honda. Make sure you have the right size
>phillips bit. Just because it seems it seems to fit doesn't mean
>it is the right size. Use the biggest phillips bit that grips it
>securely.
>
>Honda puts a clear coat on their aluminum pieces to give it a harder
>surface and to protect from corrosion. Removal of the clear coat is
>necessary for obvious reasons and the best way is to use paint
>remover. Paint remover around a bike is asking for trouble. One
>oopsie and there is a nice shiny spot on your tank or frame or ???.
>
>You could polish the aluminum to a mirror finish that looks like chrome,
>but it is a time consuming process that can be painful. Aluminum is
>quite soft and scratches easily. Even using a terry cloth to polish
>will show up when you try to get that chrome look. I don't recommend
>it.
>
>Here is an example of what you can get when you polish aluminum.
>
> http://www.mtm-online.de/en/showbild.php?id=2&table=high lights&bild=0&galerie=galerie1
>
>Yes, the Audi A8 has an aluminum body and frame. All I can say is
>that in the case of the polished A8, door dings are a bitch. I am not
>sure that one can miss that critter going down the road. The glare
>must be atrocious. I wonder what it is like driving into the
>sunset. (:>)
>
>Clear coat to use afterwards? I would try the Yamaha clear coat. It
>is tough, readily available, and a high temp formula.
>pierce
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517183 ] |
Mon, 14 November 2005 04:39 |
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checkers <checkers_member [at] newsguy.com> wrote in
news:dl8nhm01c5k [at] drn.newsguy.com:
> Will I need to take any special care when removing the crankcase covers,
> such as looking for parts to become loose or "flying" away? Will I have
> to re-time the engine or replace/reset shims when I reinstall the
> covers? I've never done something like this before. I have no trouble
> working on cars but bikes make me a little nervous. TIA
>
As with all things it is good to consult the parts manual and the service
manual before taking anything off. Generally speaking, there are no spring
loaded parts under a crank cover. It is mostly boring stuff. Bikes are a
lot like cars, just smaller.
pierce
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517184 ] |
Mon, 14 November 2005 04:44 |
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checkers <checkers_member [at] newsguy.com> wrote in
news:dl8nhm01c5k [at] drn.newsguy.com:
> Will I need to take any special care when removing the crankcase covers,
> such as looking for parts to become loose or "flying" away? Will I have
> to re-time the engine or replace/reset shims when I reinstall the
> covers? I've never done something like this before. I have no trouble
> working on cars but bikes make me a little nervous. TIA
>
The only thing you really have to watch for is the tight phillips screws. I
have had to use a 3/8 impact on some to break them loose. While that sounds
pretty extreme, removing them by hand was just starting to booger up the
slot. The impact wrench did it without fuss and saved the screw.
pierce
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517187 ] |
Mon, 14 November 2005 08:22 |
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R. Pierce Butler <spamsucks [at] google.com> wrote:
> Be sure to add an inline fuel filter.
Good point.
--
Trophy 1200 750SS XS650x2 CB400F CB125S DT50MX
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517190 ] |
Mon, 14 November 2005 15:29 |
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R. Pierce Butler <spamsucks [at] google.com> wrote:
> checkers <checkers_member [at] newsguy.com> wrote in
> news:dl8nhm01c5k [at] drn.newsguy.com:
>
> > Will I need to take any special care when removing the crankcase covers,
> > such as looking for parts to become loose or "flying" away? Will I have
> > to re-time the engine or replace/reset shims when I reinstall the
> > covers? I've never done something like this before. I have no trouble
> > working on cars but bikes make me a little nervous. TIA
> >
>
> The only thing you really have to watch for is the tight phillips screws. I
> have had to use a 3/8 impact on some to break them loose. While that sounds
> pretty extreme, removing them by hand was just starting to booger up the
> slot. The impact wrench did it without fuss and saved the screw.
This is where the cheap chinese hand operated impact tools are perfect
for the job. Hammering the bit against the screw head makes sure the
head doesn't get buggered up, and the hammering also tends to break the
screw loose at the same time, better than would just torque alone.
Here's an atypically nice one, although the cheap ones work just as well:
http://otctools.com/newcatalog/products/585_2.jpg
I found this one (OTC 4608) for as cheap as $15, by doing a google
(froogle actually) search for
phillips impact driver
--
Mark '01 SV650S '99 EX250-F13 '86 GL1200A '81 CM400T
OMF #7
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517196 ] |
Tue, 15 November 2005 01:14 |
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Mark Olson <olsonm [at] tiny.invalid> wrote in
news:11nh7q9bjq2gk77 [at] corp.supernews.com:
> R. Pierce Butler <spamsucks [at] google.com> wrote:
>> checkers <checkers_member [at] newsguy.com> wrote in
>> news:dl8nhm01c5k [at] drn.newsguy.com:
>>
>> > Will I need to take any special care when removing the crankcase
>> > covers, such as looking for parts to become loose or "flying" away?
>> > Will I have to re-time the engine or replace/reset shims when I
>> > reinstall the covers? I've never done something like this before. I
>> > have no trouble working on cars but bikes make me a little nervous.
>> > TIA
>> >
>>
>> The only thing you really have to watch for is the tight phillips
>> screws. I have had to use a 3/8 impact on some to break them loose.
>> While that sounds pretty extreme, removing them by hand was just
>> starting to booger up the slot. The impact wrench did it without fuss
>> and saved the screw.
>
> This is where the cheap chinese hand operated impact tools are perfect
> for the job. Hammering the bit against the screw head makes sure the
> head doesn't get buggered up, and the hammering also tends to break the
> screw loose at the same time, better than would just torque alone.
>
> Here's an atypically nice one, although the cheap ones work just as
> well:
>
> http://otctools.com/newcatalog/products/585_2.jpg
>
> I found this one (OTC 4608) for as cheap as $15, by doing a google
> (froogle actually) search for
>
> phillips impact driver
>
The only place I use those hammer driven impact drivers is on field winding
screws on starters and other places where I don't care what the screw looks
like when I am done.
pierce
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517198 ] |
Tue, 15 November 2005 01:59 |
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R. Pierce Butler wrote:
> Mark Olson <olsonm [at] tiny.invalid> wrote in
> news:11nh7q9bjq2gk77 [at] corp.supernews.com:
>> This is where the cheap chinese hand operated impact tools are perfect
>> for the job. Hammering the bit against the screw head makes sure the
>> head doesn't get buggered up, and the hammering also tends to break the
>> screw loose at the same time, better than would just torque alone.
> The only place I use those hammer driven impact drivers is on field winding
> screws on starters and other places where I don't care what the screw looks
> like when I am done.
Here we have to disagree. I usually do try to use a standard screwdriver first,
but if there is any hint of slippage I go to the impact. For me, using the
impact driver *always* results in less damage to the screw head. If for any
reason the screw head gets munged (only happens with a normal screwdriver, never
with the impact), I just clamp it down in the vise, hammer directly on the screw
head until the slots are mostly closed, then hammer a high quality bit into the
screw head, which restores the proper Phillips head form.
--
Mark '01 SV650S '99 EX250-F13 '86 GL1200A '81 CM400T
OMF #7
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517200 ] |
Tue, 15 November 2005 02:13 |
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Post removed (X-No-Archive: yes)
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517201 ] |
Tue, 15 November 2005 05:05 |
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Gene Cash <gcash [at] cfl.rr.com> wrote in news:64quhfw8.fsf [at] cfl.rr.com:
> Mark Olson <olsonm [at] tiny.invalid> writes:
>
>> R. Pierce Butler wrote:
>> > Mark Olson <olsonm [at] tiny.invalid> wrote in
>> > news:11nh7q9bjq2gk77 [at] corp.supernews.com:
>>
>> >> This is where the cheap chinese hand operated impact tools are
>> >> perfect for the job. Hammering the bit against the screw head makes
>> >> sure the head doesn't get buggered up, and the hammering also tends
>> >> to break the screw loose at the same time, better than would just
>> >> torque alone.
>>
>> > The only place I use those hammer driven impact drivers is on field
>> > winding screws on starters and other places where I don't care what
>> > the screw looks like when I am done.
>>
>> Here we have to disagree. I usually do try to use a standard
>> screwdriver first, but if there is any hint of slippage I go to the
>> impact. For me, using the impact driver *always* results in less
>> damage to the screw head. If for any reason the screw head gets
>> munged (only happens with a normal screwdriver, never with the
>> impact), I just clamp it down in the vise, hammer directly on the
>> screw head until the slots are mostly closed, then hammer a high
>> quality bit into the screw head, which restores the proper Phillips
>> head form.
>
> And then put in an order to McMaster-Carr for some real metal screws.
>
> Ditto. I totally agree with Mark, and the impact driver is God's gift to
> people that work on old bikes. Thank heaven that both my DL-650 and
> SV-650 use cap heads, and not those goddamned Phillips.
>
> If I think *at all* that the screw might be that soft cheese metal, I
> grab the impact driver, and I've yet to damage a screw that way.
>
> In cases where I don't, it's always been time to prove the old saying
> "with a Dremel tool, EVERYTHING takes a flat-bladed screwdriver!"
>
> Kevin Cameron did a hilarious one-page article on the problems with
> Phillips head screws that hangs in my garage today.
>
> That bastard Phillips should burn in hell, and so should the screwdriver
> designer at Craftsman, where none of their screwdrivers ever fit
> properly.
>
> -gc
>
I must be doing something wrong with my manual impact driver. I can never
get it to work the way you guys seem to. I just grab my trusty
Ingersoll-Rand 3/8" air impact though. No muss, no fuss, just out. Of
course the air impact cost a little bit more than a hammer driven version.
(:>)
The designer of the Phillips should be praised. I have been able to take
out phillips screws where a straight blade would have slipped and given up
the ghost long before. The biggest problem I have is determinng what size
phillips to use. It seems that one has to use one or two sizes bigger
than you think you should. The biggest problem comes in when the other
variants of the phillips. There is phillps, cross, Deck-Mate, drywall and
more. The Japanese have their own version (JIS) which is why we have to
pound our bits (ANSI) into the screws. Here is a better explaination of
the problem. http://www.katun.com/products/toolsjis.html
I used to curse phillips screws. Now that I have some good screwdrivers I
like them better than straight bladed screws.
pierce
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517204 ] |
Tue, 15 November 2005 14:17 |
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R. Pierce Butler <spamsucks [at] google.com> wrote:
> I must be doing something wrong with my manual impact driver. I can never
> get it to work the way you guys seem to. I just grab my trusty
> Ingersoll-Rand 3/8" air impact though. No muss, no fuss, just out. Of
> course the air impact cost a little bit more than a hammer driven version.
> (:>)
I also have a 3/8" drive air impact wrench (not IR but close enough,
thanks Mike!) and it's an appropriate size for many jobs on motorcycles
where a 1/2" drive air impact would not be, but I wouldn't dream of
using it on a Phillips screw- the manual impact driver works perfectly.
There's times when you need to remove a Phillips head screw, but to
apply enough force to the air impact wrench so that the bit doesn't cam
out you'd have to have a helper to apply pressure to the opposite side
of the bike. With a handheld hammer operated impact driver this isn't
necessary, inertia keeps the bike from tipping over.
--
Mark '01 SV650S '99 EX250-F13 '86 GL1200A '81 CM400T
OMF #7
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517220 ] |
Wed, 16 November 2005 04:14 |
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> There's times when you need to remove a Phillips head screw, but to
> apply enough force to the air impact wrench so that the bit doesn't cam
> out you'd have to have a helper to apply pressure to the opposite side
> of the bike. With a handheld hammer operated impact driver this isn't
> necessary, inertia keeps the bike from tipping over.
>
Besides, by the time you've buggered enough screws that have cold-welded
themselves in place (why they keep putting steel screws into aluminum holes
with no anti-seize on them is beyond me...), you really *want* to take a
hammer to something...
(I'm in the process of replacing all the phillips screws I can find with hex
drive ["allen key"] bolts
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| Re: restoration tips [message #517221 ] |
Wed, 16 November 2005 04:37 |
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Post removed (X-No-Archive: yes)
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